Nashville!

My first visit to Music City! Well actually I was there twice over 20 years ago but since it has changed and continues to change so rapidly that doesn’t even count. The locals (well almost no one is really a local anymore - so let’s say if you live there now you are a local) are quick to tell you that 100 people a day are moving to Nashville. And there are 200 more hotels under construction. There are cranes and construction sites everywhere you look. It is truly Vegas without gambling and the country music center of the universe. But is it fun? YES!!!! So much fun!

My running group has a destination race every year and this year was Nashville. So since I wanted to visit Nashville this seemed like the perfect opportunity. Usually we all stay at the same hotel but we discovered quickly that they need those additional hotels in Nashville because hotels are expensive. So then we started looking at Airbnb’s and that worked out great. Big shout out to my fellow planner extraordinaire Cheryl who helped me put an action packed, super fun, and absolutely delicious itinerary together. And another big thank you to Deidre and Harriett for being the most easy going and delightful traveling companions. You can only have so many planners in a group, you need a few that say whatever you two plan is great - just tell us what to bring and when to be ready😊 Energy level is also super important and luckily the four of us have enough energy to power the space shuttle and annoy most other people. Luckily we have found each other.

We arrived Friday, had the race Saturday and departed Tuesday. We had fantastic perfect weather outside of a tiny bit of rain late Monday and an unexpected dusting of snow Tuesday morning. None of which affected any of our plans.

Here in a nutshell are my top tips for visiting Nashville:

  • Don’t drive. If you drive there find a place to park your vehicle and just leave it. Traffic is pretty brutal and you will pay a lot for parking. Walk or use Uber or Lyft when necessary. It’s cheap and easier.

  • Stay in Germantown, the Gulch or Downtown area. There are lots of other nice neighborhoods in Nashville but you will be farther away from what you want to do. Most of the hotels are downtown but consider Airbnb’s in the other recommended neighborhoods. We were in Germantown and could walk to so many amazing restaurants and coffee shops and the home was fantastic for much less than a hotel.

  • Make reservations in advance for as much as you can. This includes restaurants, museums, tours and music venues. Cheryl and I did a ton of research prior to going and we were all so happy we did. The best restaurants aren’t big so it’s easy to get shut out without a reservation. And the Honky Tonk Bars on Broadway which you’ll want to spend a little time at (very little!) only serve bar food. Same with music venues and shows. Book in advance or you’ll find when you get there all the best things are sold out.

  • Nashville is very reasonable. Outside of hotels which as I said are pricey, we found the food to be excellent and quite inexpensive as compared to other tourist cities. Same with the music venues.

  • Everyone we met was so nice. This included literally everyone. Uber and Lyft drivers, restaurant servers and managers, bartenders, singers and songwriters. Not sure if it’s southern hospitality or the fact that lots of these people are in Nashville because they are trying to get into the country music business, but we didn’t meet an unfriendly or unhelpful person anywhere.

So let me get to it! First up - all the things we did.

The Race! The reason we are here. Good thing we could get that done first and then relax and have fun. The half marathon for all of us. Superstars!

The Race! The reason we are here. Good thing we could get that done first and then relax and have fun. The half marathon for all of us. Superstars!

Kansas City Express runners do Nashville! Winners! We stopped to take a few fun pics during the race. That’s the Titans stadium where the Chiefs will lose to the Titans Sunday….Boo!

Kansas City Express runners do Nashville! Winners! We stopped to take a few fun pics during the race. That’s the Titans stadium where the Chiefs will lose to the Titans Sunday….Boo!

Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. Spent a couple of hours there. That’s Elvis Presley’s gold-plated Cadillac! Not just gold finish but crushed diamonds as well. And tons of gold and platinum albums.

Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. Spent a couple of hours there. That’s Elvis Presley’s gold-plated Cadillac! Not just gold finish but crushed diamonds as well. And tons of gold and platinum albums.

My favorite part was all the clothing. The top floor is the older memorabilia and the lower floor is the current stars. I remember Kacey Musgraves wearing that red dress for the Grammy’s in 2018!

My favorite part was all the clothing. The top floor is the older memorabilia and the lower floor is the current stars. I remember Kacey Musgraves wearing that red dress for the Grammy’s in 2018!

There is a cool shopping and restaurant area called 12 South that has Reese Witherspoon’s store Draper James. It’s mostly pricey clothing but there are some cool nicknacks like this Call your Mama trinket tray. No worries Keeley I didn’t buy one for…

There is a cool shopping and restaurant area called 12 South that has Reese Witherspoon’s store Draper James. It’s mostly pricey clothing but there are some cool nicknacks like this Call your Mama trinket tray. No worries Keeley I didn’t buy one for you😊 If you have more time it would be fun to spend a half day or more exploring and eating there.

We did spend a few hours on Broadway. That’s the street most tourists spend the bulk of their time on, and where all the numerous bachelorette parties take place. A few hours was plenty for us, and it was actually in the afternoon. The Chiefs game was happening so we went to watch some of it and stop at the more iconic spots. Pretty much every major country star has a place. Jason Aldean, Blake Shelton, Kid Rock etc. We didn’t go to any of them.

Robert’s Western World is a fan favorite. Been there a long time and has live music all day and night. No cover. Cheryl and I having a beer under an intense red light.

Robert’s Western World is a fan favorite. Been there a long time and has live music all day and night. No cover. Cheryl and I having a beer under an intense red light.

Acme Feed and Seed. Four story bar and restaurant overlooking the river with a great rooftop! Lots of Chiefs fans drowning their sorrows😢

Acme Feed and Seed. Four story bar and restaurant overlooking the river with a great rooftop! Lots of Chiefs fans drowning their sorrows😢

Printers Alley. An alley just off Broadway with a 100 year tradition of entertainment dating all the way back to vaudeville.

Printers Alley. An alley just off Broadway with a 100 year tradition of entertainment dating all the way back to vaudeville.

One of the most famous and iconic places in Nashville is the Ryman Auditorium. We couldn’t get tickets to hear a concert during our visit because the venue is pretty small by today’s standards and sells out fast. Built originally as a church in the late 1800’s, it’s considered hallowed ground in the music industry. It’s where bluegrass was born and was home to the Grand Ole Opry starting in 1945. When they moved to their new current facility out in the suburbs the Ryman was vacant for almost 20 years and almost leveled, but the country music stars pulled together and helped save and renovate it to the showplace it is today. Now it is considered to be a sign that you’ve made it to play a concert there, so it’s a must see on your visit. You can do a self guided tour all day any day for the most part, but if you pay a little more you get to do the backstage tour with a guide and I recommend it highly. You know you want to see the Johnny Cash and June Carter dressing room! There are no pictures allowed backstage so you need to go see it for yourself.

Top left is the Ryman surrounded by huge new buildings and lots of construction. Still has the original church pews for the audience.

Top left is the Ryman surrounded by huge new buildings and lots of construction. Still has the original church pews for the audience.

Everyone that does either of the tours gets their BiG moment on the Ryman stage. Harriett and Cheryl really want me to stop singing and Minnie Pearl has nothing on Deidre!

Everyone that does either of the tours gets their BiG moment on the Ryman stage. Harriett and Cheryl really want me to stop singing and Minnie Pearl has nothing on Deidre!

I think my favorite part of Nashville was experiencing live music in the small intimate settings for not a lot of money. We went to two small singer/songwriter experiences that I highly recommend, but you should book your tickets ahead online. Not super far in advance - even a week or two it’s possible to get them. What I was told in advance is that these venues have typically 4 to 5 singer/songwriters that perform in every show and that you get to see, hear and meet people that are currently active and successful in the country music arena. The tickets are literally $10 each with a small fee for booking online. The caliber of talent we saw at both venues we went to literally blew us away. Almost all of the songwriters we saw have worked with every big name you can think of - Taylor Swift, Blake Shelton etc. They also have a couple of up and coming singers there to perform and they were all incredible.

The Listening Room. 4 Songwriters top right are Cameron Bedell, Phil Barton, Liz Rose (writes for Taylor Swift) and Jeff Middleton. All except Cameron have number 1 hits recorded. Bottom left is our group with Cassidy Daniels. Up and coming singer/s…

The Listening Room. 4 Songwriters top right are Cameron Bedell, Phil Barton, Liz Rose (writes for Taylor Swift) and Jeff Middleton. All except Cameron have number 1 hits recorded. Bottom left is our group with Cassidy Daniels. Up and coming singer/songwriter that is only 20 years old and fantastic. Another singer they brought on stage was Nick Boyd. What a great night!

Second spot we went to was 3rd and Lindsley. Again for $10 saw a fantastic show with 4 singer/songwriters. And one want-to-be…..Me!

Second spot we went to was 3rd and Lindsley. Again for $10 saw a fantastic show with 4 singer/songwriters. And one want-to-be…..Me!

Left to right - Ray Stephenson, Jeremy Campbell, Conor Cassidy and Rachel Thibodeau. All except Conor have number 1 hits - Ray with Blake Shelton, Rachel with Martina McBride, Jeremy with someone I didn’t know and Conor is a rising star. He was incr…

Left to right - Ray Stephenson, Jeremy Campbell, Conor Cassidy and Rachel Thibodeau. All except Conor have number 1 hits - Ray with Blake Shelton, Rachel with Martina McBride, Jeremy with someone I didn’t know and Conor is a rising star. He was incredible and only 23 years old. Remember that name! We talked to Rachel quite a bit after the show and she was so nice! Thanked us for giving her so much energy during the show😊

Next up The Station Inn. Located in The Gulch and considered to be the best place for bluegrass. And on Sunday night it’s free! It’s billed as a jam session so no set show, but it’s invite only to participate so great music. Get there by 7 PM to have any hope of getting a seat. And to say it’s not fancy is a vast understatement. If you see a seat make a new friend and take it!

Bottom right is a picture with our random new friend! No idea who but he just jumped in😊 Making friends where-ever we go!

Bottom right is a picture with our random new friend! No idea who but he just jumped in😊 Making friends where-ever we go!

The Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park. A beautiful park that has an amazing area of bells and a World War II Memorial. At the far end is the state capitol, adjacent is the Tennessee State Museum and a permanent farmer’s market enclosed and open y…

The Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park. A beautiful park that has an amazing area of bells and a World War II Memorial. At the far end is the state capitol, adjacent is the Tennessee State Museum and a permanent farmer’s market enclosed and open year round.

The John Seigenthaler Pedestrian Bridge over the river connecting Broadway to the Titans Stadium and providing great views of Nashville.

The John Seigenthaler Pedestrian Bridge over the river connecting Broadway to the Titans Stadium and providing great views of Nashville.

Now would be a great time to grab a snack, because if you’re not hungry now you will be after seeing everything we ate. Apparently in Tennessee bacon has its own place in the food pyramid - because it was abundantly available everywhere and pretty much in everything. Enjoy!

City House. The first and maybe only? James Beard award winning restaurant in Nashville. Reservations a must! Amazing! We found quickly that with our group of four ladies 2 or 3 appetizers and 2 entrees or pastas and one bottle of red wine was just …

City House. The first and maybe only? James Beard award winning restaurant in Nashville. Reservations a must! Amazing! We found quickly that with our group of four ladies 2 or 3 appetizers and 2 entrees or pastas and one bottle of red wine was just perfect to make us feel happy and not stuffed. And one shared dessert - of which I usually ate more than my share…..sorry! Pizza with bacon, trout with field peas, gnocchi, some kind of cheese and squash and a sweet potato pancake over arugula salad with lots of other delicious tidbits. lemon ricotta cake for dessert. Yumm! And in a very cool old building in Germantown.

Post race brunch at Silo in Germantown. Those buttermilk biscuit beignets with homemade berry jam alone are worth a trip to Nashville. Two orders of frittatas and two of huevos rancheros. Very cool place. I hear dinner is fantastic too.

Post race brunch at Silo in Germantown. Those buttermilk biscuit beignets with homemade berry jam alone are worth a trip to Nashville. Two orders of frittatas and two of huevos rancheros. Very cool place. I hear dinner is fantastic too.

Kansas City Express group celebration dinner at the historic Woolworth’s! Who doesn’t remember sitting at the counter eating burgers, fries and a shake?! Well now it’s entirely a nostalgia restaurant in Nashville and you can get the famous Nashville…

Kansas City Express group celebration dinner at the historic Woolworth’s! Who doesn’t remember sitting at the counter eating burgers, fries and a shake?! Well now it’s entirely a nostalgia restaurant in Nashville and you can get the famous Nashville hot chicken and a brownie sundae alamode. I picked neither but it was still fun to see it and celebrate everyone finishing the marathon or half marathon strong. Thanks to Tracey for her hard work in finding a decent restaurant that would serve 16 of us on a Saturday night! Congrats to all!

Germantown Cafe for Sunday brunch with the Angold ladies joining us. Another fabulous meal starting off with some complimentary donuts. I never turn down a donut especially ones still served hot. Shrimp and grits, strata with grits and a breakfast b…

Germantown Cafe for Sunday brunch with the Angold ladies joining us. Another fabulous meal starting off with some complimentary donuts. I never turn down a donut especially ones still served hot. Shrimp and grits, strata with grits and a breakfast bowl were just a few of the choices we made, another cool spot in you guessed it…..Germantown!

Dinner at Moto Cucina + Enotica in the Gulch. Beautiful spot and a little larger then the other places we ate at. Cauliflower and brussel sprout appetizers, Branzino and 2 pastas for entrees to share. The perfect amount of food. All delicious!

Dinner at Moto Cucina + Enotica in the Gulch. Beautiful spot and a little larger then the other places we ate at. Cauliflower and brussel sprout appetizers, Branzino and 2 pastas for entrees to share. The perfect amount of food. All delicious!

Earlier in the day we stopped to pick up cupcakes for dessert. Number one cupcakes in Nashville! How could we pass them up! We shared wedding cake, lemonade, sweet potato and hot chocolate. Wedding cake is and always will be my favorite😊

Earlier in the day we stopped to pick up cupcakes for dessert. Number one cupcakes in Nashville! How could we pass them up! We shared wedding cake, lemonade, sweet potato and hot chocolate. Wedding cake is and always will be my favorite😊

Barista Parlor to start our day. An AMAZING coffee shop. In fact we loved it so much I should post this picture twice because that’s how many times we went there. Super cool interior and absolutely incredible breakfast biscuits with eggs, cheese and…

Barista Parlor to start our day. An AMAZING coffee shop. In fact we loved it so much I should post this picture twice because that’s how many times we went there. Super cool interior and absolutely incredible breakfast biscuits with eggs, cheese and bacon or sausage. Nashville knows how to biscuit that’s for sure. And great coffee drinks. Just a block from our house in Germantown.

Vui’s Kitchen came up in the top 10 on every restaurant list Cheryl and I looked at so we had to try it for lunch. Fantastic Vietnamese food. I tried the chicken pho and it was so good! And healthy! And guess where? Germantown!

Vui’s Kitchen came up in the top 10 on every restaurant list Cheryl and I looked at so we had to try it for lunch. Fantastic Vietnamese food. I tried the chicken pho and it was so good! And healthy! And guess where? Germantown!

Rolf and Daughters - the number one pick of people who live in Nashville. 3 appetizers - sweet potatoe with some kind of cheese and spices, a spaghetti squash with farro and broccoli and cauliflower with prosciutto. Roasted chicken and pasta for ent…

Rolf and Daughters - the number one pick of people who live in Nashville. 3 appetizers - sweet potatoe with some kind of cheese and spices, a spaghetti squash with farro and broccoli and cauliflower with prosciutto. Roasted chicken and pasta for entrees. The dessert was my favorite of the entire trip. It was listed as sourdough ice cream with sunchoke and amaro - but was over this amazing sort of spice cake. I’m still dreaming about it. And a dessert cocktail called See You Next Year. Sharing is the best!

Red Bicycle was another fun coffee shop right across the street from our Airbnb. Super nice people!

Red Bicycle was another fun coffee shop right across the street from our Airbnb. Super nice people!

Another place right in our neighborhood. Tempered. When something says Best Hot Chocolate in Nashville how can you not try it! Is hot chocolate ever NOT good?

Another place right in our neighborhood. Tempered. When something says Best Hot Chocolate in Nashville how can you not try it! Is hot chocolate ever NOT good?

Did I exaggerate when I said we had great food? I think not! And like I said in my tips - compared to what you might think costs in a nice restaurant in a destination place, we all felt like it was reasonable for the great quality, taste and portion size. We shared all the dishes but it was encouraged in every restaurant. We would ask our server if they thought it went together and we had enough food and they were all super helpful and didn’t push us to order more food. We did make reservations in almost all of the places especially for brunch and dinner and it really paid off.

Our Airbnb pre-Chiefs game with our Angold friends and fellow runners.

Our Airbnb pre-Chiefs game with our Angold friends and fellow runners.

Celebrities everywhere on Broadway!

Celebrities everywhere on Broadway!

Nashville you made us love you💕

Nashville you made us love you💕

Traveling helps you learn about yourself. I learned I like country music! Life is a journey and let’s all keep enjoying the ride. Thanks for coming along!

Bratefest 2019 - Seattle!

I think this is Bratefest #5 - when as many Brate’s as possible get together to watch our nephew, son or cousin Cam play football. It started when he was at Harvard and has continued on now that he is in the NFL playing for the Tampa Bay Buccaneers. We get together for other reasons too - like weddings, funerals and just general shenanigans, since we enjoy being together but live from one end of the US to literally the other. I myself love going to Tampa for a game. Preferably in winter! But this year when the schedule came out and and the Bucs were heading to Seattle my brother David who lives there suggested we all come out there for the game. While I love the Pacific Northwest and think it’s so beautiful I also know that November could be cold and rainy, but being the good sport that I am I said why not! Well lucky for us the weather couldn’t have been more perfect. Sunny and in the 50’s the entire time - perfect fall football weather.

I arrived a few days before the main group so had some extra time to enjoy with my brother and his wife. Dave actually lives in Bremerton which is across Puget Sound from Seattle, and home to Puget Sound Naval Shipyard and a US Naval Base. It’s kind of the best of all worlds - a pretty smallish town on the water but an easy and beautiful ferry ride to Seattle. You can get there by car but it takes a lot longer, so for me the ferry is the way to go!

Ferry ride on a beautiful day with my brother Dave! Hello Emerald City!

Ferry ride on a beautiful day with my brother Dave! Hello Emerald City!

We took the ferry over to see the Seattle Aquarium which is very close to where the ferries dock.

Definitely worth a visit. We ran out of time before we got to see everything but what we saw was great. Including a couple of huge octopus and some adorable sea otters.

Definitely worth a visit. We ran out of time before we got to see everything but what we saw was great. Including a couple of huge octopus and some adorable sea otters.

Lots of anemones and sea urchins to touch. Dave made me do it!😱

Lots of anemones and sea urchins to touch. Dave made me do it!😱

One thing you need to eat in Seattle is chowder! Lots of great places to have it - Ivar’s is everywhere but we opted for somewhere a little more upscale - Anthony’s!

Anthony’s clam chowder was great - but the sour dough bread is what really makes it special.

Anthony’s clam chowder was great - but the sour dough bread is what really makes it special.

The family all arrived and we met up at the famous Pike Place Market in downtown Seattle. A great spot to meet up is at the brass pig right in front of the fish market. You can’t miss it!

Cousins! Jack, Angela and Keeley. Oh and my big brother Phil!

Cousins! Jack, Angela and Keeley. Oh and my big brother Phil!

Lots of fish at the market but many other great things - flowers, produce, handicrafts, bakery items etc. So fun to browse.

Lots of fish at the market but many other great things - flowers, produce, handicrafts, bakery items etc. So fun to browse.

The original Starbucks is right across from the market. The line is always huge and on this day was at least a block long. There’s another Starbucks a block away so if you’re just wanting coffee don’t wait in line at that one . But it does have merc…

The original Starbucks is right across from the market. The line is always huge and on this day was at least a block long. There’s another Starbucks a block away so if you’re just wanting coffee don’t wait in line at that one . But it does have merchandise with the original logo on it so if that’s your thing go for it!

Cam joined us along with a few friends of his so we started looking for a place for lunch. Where can we go with 15 people? The stars aligned and we found a great place called Serious Pie that is pretty famous in Seattle because the owner Tom Douglas has quite a following. They were so nice in accommodating our big group and set us up right in the kitchen! We ordered a selection of salads, pizza’s and desserts and just passed them around. The food was great but this group didn’t wait for me to take pictures!

A fun group!

A fun group!

After we ate we walked around some more and didn’t want to miss the famous gum wall. Well at this point it’s turned into a gum alley! I just happened to have a pack of gum with me so got everyone to chew a stick and make a deposit.

Officially called Post Alley. Look for our Br8! Touching NOT encouraged!

Officially called Post Alley. Look for our Br8! Touching NOT encouraged!

Game Day! Time to head to Century Link Stadium to watch the Sea Hawks play the Buccaneers. Another gorgeous day! The stadium is really cool. It’s right next to where the Mariners play, and at one end of the stadium you can see Puget Sound. It was a great game. The Sea Hawks won in overtime, but the Bucs played really well.

Standing room only at every game.

Standing room only at every game.

Post game family area for visiting players is basically in the basement. Much better area when you’re the home team but you take what you can get when you’re the visitor.

Post game family area for visiting players is basically in the basement. Much better area when you’re the home team but you take what you can get when you’re the visitor.

On our last day all together we went for a little hike at Illahee State Park. Beautiful fall colors and a pretty view of Puget Sound.

It was like another trip to the Aquarium. We saw at least 50 jelly fish swimming in the water and tons of snails, anemones and crabs around the pilings.

It was like another trip to the Aquarium. We saw at least 50 jelly fish swimming in the water and tons of snails, anemones and crabs around the pilings.

Family dinner at Horse and Cow in Bremerton. Lots of navy memorabilia that they have been collecting for 65 years. Don’t ring the bell!

Family dinner at Horse and Cow in Bremerton. Lots of navy memorabilia that they have been collecting for 65 years. Don’t ring the bell!

A perfect fall day in Seattle!

A perfect fall day in Seattle!

Fantastic sunsets every single night over the mountains.

Fantastic sunsets every single night over the mountains.

Until next time Seattle!

Until next time Seattle!

Bratefest 2019 is a wrap! Thanks for coming along😊

Day 23 - Montmartre

Our last full day in Paris the weather was spectacular. Warmer and sunny - so we headed to the 18th arrondissement which is the Montmartre area famous for the Basilica of the Sacre-Coeur and the Place du Tertre where artists paint and do portraits. Paris is basically a flat city except for the Montmartre area which is a huge hill. If you make it up all the steps to the Sacre-Coeur you are treated to a fabulous view of Paris - worth it! The area is always super crowded with tourists so beware of pickpockets and Gypsy’s.

Ta Da! This was taken after I had already been to the top - made it! The beautiful white Basilica is only 130 years old which is not old by French standards. There was a mass going on inside so I didn’t take pictures but it’s beautiful and worth a v…

Ta Da! This was taken after I had already been to the top - made it! The beautiful white Basilica is only 130 years old which is not old by French standards. There was a mass going on inside so I didn’t take pictures but it’s beautiful and worth a visit.

Place du Tertre where the artists gather and paint dating all the way to the 1800’s and the Impressionists. Lots of narrow winding streets with shops and restaurants.

Place du Tertre where the artists gather and paint dating all the way to the 1800’s and the Impressionists. Lots of narrow winding streets with shops and restaurants.

We had checked off all the major things on our list so our goal after Montmartre was just to meander the 9th arrondissement, find some food and enjoy a beautiful day in Paris. Can you think of a better idea? All the arrondissements have their own distinct personality, and the 9th feels very local. Loved it! Lots of small shops, restaurants, flower shops, patisseries, fromageries, charcuterie etc.

A pretty boulevard in the 9th arrondissement.

A pretty boulevard in the 9th arrondissement.

Lunch in the 9th at Cafe M. We were checking menus as we both wanted a classic roasted chicken and found it here. Delicious!

Lunch in the 9th at Cafe M. We were checking menus as we both wanted a classic roasted chicken and found it here. Delicious!

More meandering took us past this McDonalds. Most subtle one I’ve ever seen complete with a sidewalk seating area.

More meandering took us past this McDonalds. Most subtle one I’ve ever seen complete with a sidewalk seating area.

The majority of Paris is in what is called the Haussmann building style named after Georges-Eugene Haussmann who carried out a massive urban renewal program of reconstruction in the early 1800’s. The buildings are made of stone and looked striped with amazing iron balconies and trim.

Classic example of Haussmann style and everywhere you look in Paris.

Classic example of Haussmann style and everywhere you look in Paris.

Our last day in Paris deserves a stop at a patisserie so we found a sweet little shop to indulge ourselves.

A chocolate eclair for Julie that surprised her by being filled with an enormous amount of chocolate filling and a strawberry tart for me. On such a sweet little street called Rue Cadet.

A chocolate eclair for Julie that surprised her by being filled with an enormous amount of chocolate filling and a strawberry tart for me. On such a sweet little street called Rue Cadet.

We eventually made it back to our hotel to start packing for our return back to the states. We stayed at a great little boutique hotel in the Marais called Relais du Marais that was in a wonderful location convenient to getting us quickly anywhere in the city via Metro or walking. The people working there were all so sweet and helpful and got a kick out of our botched attempts at speaking French. We anticipated a quiet evening of getting packed and a good nights sleep before our early morning departure but Paris always has a surprise in store for you. We heard a lot of noise outside our room from the street at about 8:30 PM and opened the windows to see what was happening. To our surprise our quiet street was filled with a protest parade of people marching down the street chanting and waving signs and banners. All of a sudden a few protesters got out of hand and started running toward cars with big sticks and it appeared they were going to start destructive behavior and immediately out of the corner of our eyes a large amount of riot police appeared in full gear - helmets, large shields and batons and took over the street. The protesters started throwing what appeared to be fireworks and the police countered with what we thought were smoke bombs but we soon discovered was either tear gas or pepper spray because our eyes started burning and we were choking. We quickly closed the windows but it took awhile for us to feel normal again. We watched the rest with the windows closed but were super impressed with how quickly the police got things under control with no real force. Behind the mass of riot police were at least 20 police vans following. The protesters peacefully continued down the street and all was well. There are protests frequently in Paris but because the gun control laws are so strong there while there was a heightened sense of anxiety during the protest my first thought wasn’t that someone was going to pull out a gun and start shooting. We asked in the morning at the front desk what was the cause of the demonstration and they said it was the Turkish invasion into Syria.

View from our window of the protest right before the police arrived.

View from our window of the protest right before the police arrived.

Day 24 - back to Charles de Gaulle airport for the return flight to Chicago where I’ll be spending the weekend with family and friends cheering for my incredible daughter Keeley who is running the Chicago Marathon. - Yeah Keeley!

I feel a bit overwhelmed with gratitude for being able to make this trip with my amazing, adventurous, fun and beautiful friend Julie. We visited so many fantastic places, saw so many incredible sites, ate the most delicious food, drank great wine, navigated trains, fumbled through languages and met warm friendly people. We walked over 155 miles (I know this because I kept track!), and I ate croissants every morning for 24 days. I thought I could never get tired of delicious croissants and found that that is incorrect, At least for now I am maxed out!

Just one morning of the many that started my day😊

Just one morning of the many that started my day😊

We celebrated Julie’s birthday in Portugal with champagne and cake! I think Julie will always remember this birthday!

Happy Birthday Julie! I hope it’s your best year yet!

Happy Birthday Julie! I hope it’s your best year yet!

Thanks for reading about our trip. If you read one post or all I’m glad you came along. This is not the end for me. I have lots more places I want to visit. Check back soon!

A bientot Paris💕

A bientot Paris💕

“I am not the same, having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world.” Mary Anne Radmacher

Day 22 - Giverny💕

I have wanted to see Giverny for years - so saying today was a dream come true is so accurate. I love the Impressionists and Claude Monet is my absolute favorite, so one of the things I wanted to do more than anything with having the extended time in Paris was to take the train out to see the home and gardens where he painted so profusely. With the weather forecast being for rain every day I finally decided that I was going rain or shine as my days to do it are running out. Monet painted in all weather conditions so surely it would be beautiful even in the rain right?

I left the hotel at 7:30 and caught the Metro to the Gare St Lazare station where the trains to Normandy leave from, and was on the 8:19 to Vernon easily. It turned out to be a gorgeous day! Sunny and just a slight chill in the air. From my research I know it’s a mob scene there May through August, so while October might not be quite as lush it wasn’t crowded at all. It was spectacular and I took at least 100 pictures. Luckily for you I’m not going to post them all. But if you want more just email me and I’ll be happy to share with you.

Your admission ticket gives you full access to his home and both gardens. Monet first planted the Walled Garden in front of his home with a profusion of gorgeous flowers and trellis’s, and then added the Water Garden across the street accessed by an underground walkway.

Monet home which is quite large.

Monet home which is quite large.

Walled Garden

Walled Garden

Arches which are full of roses in season. Still beautiful even in the fall.

Arches which are full of roses in season. Still beautiful even in the fall.

Water Garden with the water lilies. Japanese bridge at the far end.

Water Garden with the water lilies. Japanese bridge at the far end.

Bottom left the boats he painted so often.

Bottom left the boats he painted so often.

From inside the home. Top and bottom on the left the views of the walled garden from windows. How beautiful to see from inside the home. All the rooms were painted wonderful colors - just like the beautiful colors in the paintings! It made me so hap…

From inside the home. Top and bottom on the left the views of the walled garden from windows. How beautiful to see from inside the home. All the rooms were painted wonderful colors - just like the beautiful colors in the paintings! It made me so happy!

I was lucky to stay for a few hours enjoying the beauty and then headed back via bus to the town of Vernon where the train to Paris picks you up. Vernon isn’t very large but it’s a pretty typical town in Normandy and I had time to eat lunch and walk a bit.

Found this great boulangerie/patisserie where it seemed every person that lived there was in line for a baguette. Bought a ham and cheese sandwich that was huge and delicious and ate every bite. Unfortunately I didn’t leave room for an amazing pastr…

Found this great boulangerie/patisserie where it seemed every person that lived there was in line for a baguette. Bought a ham and cheese sandwich that was huge and delicious and ate every bite. Unfortunately I didn’t leave room for an amazing pastry of which they had many. Poor planning☹️

In my walk around the historic area I came across Collegiate Church Norte Dame and stopped inside. The church dates back to the 14th century and had some original stained glass and an amazing organ.

Bottom left the organ. I was treated to music by someone practicing - bonus!

Bottom left the organ. I was treated to music by someone practicing - bonus!

The house across the street from the church called The House of Past Times because it’s one of the oldest houses in Vernon and was spared the bombing of World War Two. The corner post is decorated with a carving of the Annunciation where the Angel Gabriel announced the coming of Christ to the Virgin Mary.

The House of Past Times.

The House of Past Times.

Back to Paris via train and met up with Julie for an amazing dinner at Le Bistrot Paul Bert. Both Julie and I had heard of it as it was recommended because Anthony Bourdain featured it on one of his shows. It did not disappoint. We both had the prix fixe option which is common in Paris for dinner - a set price for a starter, entree and dessert. The menu is on a chalkboard only as it changes every day based on what they get that is the freshest. We both had the tomato salad to start which was incredible, brill fish with spinach for the entree, and custard with caramel sauce for Julie and Grand Mariner soufflé for me. We shared the desserts and both agreed the soufflé was exquisite!

What a fantastic meal!

What a fantastic meal!

I had to get a close up of the soufflé. Can one ever see too many pictures of dessert?

I had to get a close up of the soufflé. Can one ever see too many pictures of dessert?

I will remember this day forever💕 Thanks for coming along!

Day 21 - Raining in Paris

What do you do in Paris when it rains? Exactly what you were planning! Rain doesn’t stop anyone or anything here - you just go. We planned a pretty relaxing day as we’ve been keeping ourselves on the go and covering a lot of ground. Raincoat ✅ Umbrella✅ Off we go!

We started walking down toward the Seine with a potential destination of the Louvre and the Tuileries. We browsed in shops and got a little shopping done - never a terrible idea in Paris. There are so many great shops for anyone and everything. I’m not a big shopper but it was fun.

I love this picture! Another example of the old and the new totally working.

I love this picture! Another example of the old and the new totally working.

We stopped for lunch at a cute cafe called La Favorite that had been recommended to us and it was wonderful. It was right across the street from a beautiful church I had been in over my Christmas trip where we heard a wonderful holiday concert of Vivaldi.

Eglise Saint Paul Saint Louis

Eglise Saint Paul Saint Louis

Avocado toast for Julie and a Croque Madame for me. Delicious!

Avocado toast for Julie and a Croque Madame for me. Delicious!

We sat at the cafe for awhile and just people watched. Lots of great umbrellas and we discussed whether or not you can tell a lot about a person based on their umbrella😊

We sat at the cafe for awhile and just people watched. Lots of great umbrellas and we discussed whether or not you can tell a lot about a person based on their umbrella😊

Time to move on so we headed over to see the Louvre. No plans to go inside but such a beautiful building.

With the rain it wasn’t that busy outside so I had to jump up on one of the boxes and do it😊

With the rain it wasn’t that busy outside so I had to jump up on one of the boxes and do it😊

We meandered down through the Tuileries which are gorgeous gardens that sit between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde. With all the rain Paris has been having the flowers are still gorgeous and the grass is so green!

The Tuileries

The Tuileries

The day we arrived in Paris a new sculpture was unveiled in the Garden of the Petit Palace which is an art gallery along the Champs-Elysees. It is a gift from the American artist Jeff Koons that is meant to symbolize love as a tribute to the 130 people that were killed in the November 2015 terror attacks and bombings that occurred here. The sculpture is 40 feet high and we found it. It’s supposed to be tulips but looks more like marshmallows to me, but still cool. The hand is unbelievably realistic looking.

Jeff Koons Tulip sculpture in the garden of the Petit Palace.

Jeff Koons Tulip sculpture in the garden of the Petit Palace.

The Arc de Triomph. So iconic.

The Arc de Triomph. So iconic.

Planning a BiG day for tomorrow so that’s it for now! Check back soon😊