Copenhagen Day 3

It’s my last day in Copenhagen, and it started out a little cloudy but then cleared up and was beautiful. Good thing for all the people doing the Copenhagen Ironman today. The run went right past my hotel and it was fun to see some of the athletes, but it took all day so what a grueling challenge. The finish line was right in front of the Christiansborg Palace, and if you watched Bergen on Netflix that’s where most of it takes place.

I also got to see the Little Mermaid statue from the front. It’s actually fairly small. Kind of like seeing the Mona Lisa in the Louvre. She has been vandalized a couple of times - once losing her head and once her arm. Really? What kind of person hates on the Little Mermaid? But now she has lights and more security so she’s doing pretty well. A huge crowd of people so she’s very popular. A cool seaplane in the background.

Next stop Amalienborg Palace. This is where the current queen actually lives. The top picture is her residence, but there are 4 basically identical houses that look like that around a central courtyard. One for the reigning Queen or King, then one for the next in line, one a guest house, and one a museum. They have royal guards that stand just like at Buckingham Palace and have the changing of the guards - but if the queen is gone then it’s far less of a production. That was the case today since she is in France. Bottom right picture is of their church. It’s called the Marble Church and is right between two of the houses. Quite stunning. Also the statue of the man on the horse is Frederick V.

Then I headed over to an area called Christianshavn. It’s across the bridge from the central part of town and very residential and beautiful. I read that it used to be a merchant’s district and fell into bad condition until a couple of decades ago when it had a resurgence and is now considered very desirable with wonderful renovated apartments and condos, cool restaurants and great canal walks. I researched a good restaurant to have a staple here in Denmark - the open face sandwich for lunch. It did not disappoint. They recommend 3 per person but I couldn’t even finish two. They are served on amazing rye bread. Top right was potato, red onion and a crab cake. Bottom right was beetroot with fried goat cheese on top. They have at least 20 different combinations - some with sea food, beef and chicken in addition to vegetarian. Delicious!

I just wandered around and sat on a few benches and enjoyed all the boat traffic through the canals. So many beautiful boats including some that looked like people might actually live on them.

They have a church in Christianshavn called Our Savior’s Church that you can pay a few dollars and climb the 400 stairs to get to the top of the tower. I thought about doing it but it wasn’t the 400 stairs that made me say no - it was the fact that the top part is totally open and there is no way I wouldn’t have been gripping the wall and totally freaking out with my fear of open height. I could actually see people climbing those spirals and it made my head spin. But looks amazing even from the outside. So if you’re there ever check it out and it might be right up your alley. They say you have a great view of the whole city and I totally believe it.

Here is a good picture of the new Copenhagen library. It’s enormous and called the Black Diamond. It angles up so larger at the top than the bottom. It picks up the reflection off the water and shimmers on a sunny day. It’s connected to the old library right behind it so a perfect example of the old and new working together. A fantastic wonderful resource for all the people of Copenhagen.

Something I’ve never seen before - rent an umbrella. I’ve seen rent a bike and rent a scooter, but I guess since it rains quite a bit up here you can just rent a nice big umbrella. I haven’t seen this in the states yet but I think it’s a great idea for big cities where people walk a lot like NYC and Chicago. Thoughts?

I’ve mentioned how people really enjoy the water here and it’s been a bit of a surprise how much swimming I’ve seen. There are some areas cordoned off that appear to be where you’re supposed to swim, but people put down towels just about anywhere that is close in height to the water and just jump in. And you see structures like this one along the boardwalk too. Pretty creative. Who needs a waterfront summer house in Copenhagen when you can jump in anywhere.

Copenhagen has really exceeded my expectations. Such a beautiful city with so much history, but also really embracing the future with new designs and energy efficiency. The people are friendly and helpful and appear to really enjoy life. I highly recommend putting it on your list and I may add it back on mine for a return visit. Next stop Sweden! Check back and thanks for coming along! 🇩🇰

Copenhagen Day 2

Another beautiful day in Copenhagen. Also it’s Saturday so lots of people out and about, especially in the water. Boaters, kayakers, paddle boarders and tons of swimmers. The water looks clean and someone said you can drink it. Wait isn’t it sea water so doesn’t that mean it’s salty? I will research that another time.

I started my day with a tour of city hall which is called Rädhus located in the town square. It’s looks quite old but was actually built in 1905. We had a great tour guide that not only described the building and architecture, but quite a bit about the history and beliefs of the Danish people. They are very proud of their democracy and everything is built around the importance of keeping it. That’s the city’s founder above the entrance in gold - Bishop Absalon (1128-1201).

Lots of detail inside filled with symbolism and history.

They have a special room that houses Jens Olsen’s World Clock built from 1943 to 1955. The most precise clock in the world. One of its gears does a complete rotation every 25,753 years. That makes zero sense to me but still pretty cool.

Outside to the left of the building is a statue of Hans Christian Andersen. I read the tradition is that you sit in his lap, take off your shirt and take a picture. What? Just reporting what I read! I didn’t see anyone do that and I was not inclined. The Danes do seem to be quite fun loving so maybe another time.

Lots of bakeries in Denmark - just look for the pretzel hanging outside. This one had a pretty good line so I hope to get back there before I leave.

Next up Rick Steves walking tour. He never disappoints for people like me that want to know all the history including the statues, fountains and hidden courtyards that usually just the locals know about. Here are a few pics of things that stood out to me. Top left - fountain in the old town square. It’s a pregnant woman squirting water from her breasts next to a boy urinating. I’m not making this up! The people were appalled so they raised it high hoping no one could see it, and in all honesty it’s a little hard to see. Top left - the Round Tower. Built in 1642 it connects a church, library and observatory and offers a great view of the city. Bottom left - Christiansborg Palace which the royal family shares with parliament. Bottom right - Sankt Peters Church. Lots of weddings happening all over town today - from City Hall to all the churches.

I found a cute place for lunch on the walking tour. It was in a sweet courtyard off the busy main street so I enjoyed a delicious panini sandwich and did some people watching while sitting in the shade.

There are lots of cute street food stands and quite a number of them offer sausages. Always makes me think of my son. He would be trying them all. This one looked particularly good so I was tempted. Not there yet.

One of the most popular things to do here is take a canal tour. The main company is called Canal Tours - so creative. There are other companies that use much smaller boats and would be fun for a group of friends - but I just did the traditional one and really enjoyed it. You get to see lots of impressive buildings, museums, neighborhoods, the Royal yacht, where the queen lives, and also go under about 30 of the lowest bridges you’ve ever seen! I saw the famous Little Mermaid statue but just from the back. Tomorrow I might rent a bike and go see it from the front. The guide doing the tour has to actually crouch down and almost sit on the floor of the boat not to get knocked over. Plus on a nice day it’s fun to get out on the water. Tours are an hour.

Walking back to the hotel my GPS took me right through the Royal Garden which is between Parliament and the library. So beautiful! An unexpected surprise and great way to wrap up a fun day.

Thanks for coming along💕 Farvel That means goodbye.

Day 1 -Copenhagen

Better late than never! This was a trip I planned for 2020 and it’s finally coming to fruition. First stop Copenhagen and my initial impression is very positive. This is going to be fairly brief as most of the day was just spent getting here. I landed and then took the train to the center of town. Super easy to do and only cost $4.40 US - quite a bargain. Found my hotel and then took a long walk to get my bearings. Here are just some things that caught my attention. Lots of construction happening. I love the contrast of the very old and very new. Feels like such a vibrant city and because the weather was amazing so many people out walking and more bicycles than cars for sure. Lots of water with the sea and all the canals so beautiful boats taking people out and something I’m planning to do tomorrow for sure.

Nyhavn is probably the most photographed area of Copenhagen and what everyone thinks of first. Established in the 1670s it was originally sailors’ quarters. Now very gentrified and full of trendy cafes, jazz clubs and great people watching. Also where Hans Christian Andersen lived and no way at some point I’m not going to see the Little Mermaid statue.

I walked by so many beautiful stores! Good thing I’m not much of a shopper because it was tempting even for me. I wandered into this beautiful emporium called ILLUM and came across this spectacular art installation by Kenneth Rasmussen - an artist that upcycles trash to art. This one is knitted from plastic bags and was gorgeous.

What I didn’t do was eat! I was occupied with taking it all in and then was just too exhausted to sit at a restaurant for fear of falling asleep in my plate. So tomorrow I will definitely make up for it and post the local fare. Lots of bakeries which is right up my alley. As usual I have planned full days for myself so check back and come along. It feels so good to be out exploring again🤗

A Fun Day in Milwaukee

Milwaukee Wisconsin is about an hour and a half from Chicago, so I’ve been wanting to check out a few things I heard were great. My friend Cheryl coming in from Kansas City was a good opportunity to have a fun road trip with a great friend plus Cheryl is always up for any crazy idea I concoct.

The first stop was the Milwaukee Art Museum. It’s located right in downtown Milwaukee on the beautiful shore of Lake Michigan. There was a special Scandinavian exhibit I was interested in seeing since I’m heading there very soon. Plus I had heard the museum was wonderful. That was actually an understatement. The building itself is spectacular and starts out right as you approach with the most incredible “wings” on top of the museum. They are called the Burke Brise Soleil and is a moveable sunscreen that rests on top of the museum’s vaulted glass-enclosed entrance hall. They open when the museum opens, close and reopen at noon, and close again when the museum closes. They are giant wings that are the size of a Boeing 747 and really take your breath away. It’s two ultrasonic wind sensors automatically close the wings if the wind speed reaches 23 mph or greater. Being right on the lake that probably happens pretty often. The picture of Cheryl and I on the left is before the wings opened and on the right fully opened. So cool!

What was a big surprise to me was how gorgeous the inside of the museum is and how the style of the sleek wings is reinterpreted throughout the entrance hall and hallways of the modern structure. All the while allowing you to gaze out at the gorgeous lake just steps away.

The Scandinavian exhibit was really great and made me even more excited for my upcoming trip. The museum had many exhibit rooms of their permanent collection, but we wanted to have a bite to eat and then head to our next destination. They have a small but nice cafe where you can get a coffee, drink, sandwich or salad etc. so we decided to get a light meal and take it out to one of the tables right by the lake since it was a perfect weather day. I will definitely plan to get back up there soon to see some of their other beautiful works of art.

Next stop the Joan of Arc Chapel on the campus of Marquette University. It is the oldest building in North America still used for the purpose it was intended. Build in 1420 it was purchased in 1966 by a wealthy couple who donated it to Marquette and had it taken apart, shipped to Milwaukee, and rebuilt on the campus. The chapel contains the stone that has a French endorsement of authenticity that it is the stone Joan prayed at for success in battle. She would then kiss the stone. Joan of Arc is a French heroine of the Hundred Years War and is now the patron saint of France. The stone is installed in a niche behind the altar and pictured in the bottom left below. Engineers have repeatedly tested the stone and found it is always at least a few degrees colder than all the other stones in the chapel. We were able to touch it and it did feel colder! We took the opportunity to sit for a few minutes and take in the peace and beauty of the chapel. Also say a few prayers for those we love and the world in general.

Did someone say we need dessert? Did I mention it was Cheryl’s birthday? Did you know Milwaukee is the world capital of frozen custard? All of these things are true! Let me share more information than you ever thought you needed to know about frozen custard. it originated in the UK and made its first appearance in the US in 1919 on Coney Island. It made it to Chicago in 1933 for the World’s Fair and then moved up into Wisconsin. More frozen custard is consumed in Milwaukee than anywhere in the world! So we just had to have some plus Cheryl needs a birthday treat. I did some research and landed on Leon’s. A Milwaukee legend since the early 1940’s. It did not disappoint. We decided we would share a sundae so the birthday girl picked fresh raspberry with hot fudge and salted pecans. It was incredible! Almost worth a trip to Milwaukee just for that! Your health tip of the day is that as good as it tastes - frozen custard is lower in calories and fat than most ice cream. So go ahead and indulge ever so often.

Our last stop before heading back to Illinois was the Burnham Block. Frank Lloyd Wright designed this block of American System-Built Homes in 1915. There are 6 homes in total - two one story homes and four two story duplexes. Wright was trying to solve the housing shortage and build smaller less expensive but still beautifully designed homes. In 1985 the block was added to the National Historic Registry and thanks to a remarkable group of volunteers the homes are being returned one by one to exactly how they were originally designed complete with furniture. They only do tours of the interiors on Saturdays with a reservation but our lucky stars aligned and there was a volunteer there working on a deck who offered to give us a private tour after we chatted about Wright a bit and he could see that we were more than just the casually curious. We felt like we had won the lottery! Not the billion dollar lottery but a pretty decent one😂

That was our fun day in Milwaukee! From the research I did in advance I know there are more things to see there so a return trip at some point is on my list. Enjoy the last month of summer and check back soon for my upcoming trip posts!

Driehaus & Charnley-Persky House Museums

A mini post about two beautiful historic architectural gems in Chicago that are worth visiting. Both on the National Historic Registry, built around the same time, and both available to visit and tour. The similarities end there as they are very different styles - which is one reason Chicago is such an architecturally significant city.

First the Richard H. Driehaus Museum located at 40 E Erie St, which is just a couple of blocks west of the Starbucks Roastery on Michigan Ave. This home was built in 1883 for Samuel M. Nickerson - a wealthy Chicago banker. The museum is named for Richard Driehaus - a Chicago businessman, philanthropist and art collector. The restored mansion is not a recreation of the Nickerson period - but rather broadly interprets the design, architecture, and decorating tastes of Gilded Age America and the art nouveau era.

The museum displays original furnishings from the Nickerson era along with decorative arts of the late 19th and early 20th century along with works by Louis Comfort Tiffany. The house took 4 years to build and cost $450,000 - a very large amount of money for the time - but that translates to over 10 million in todays costs. And having been there I totally believe it! I called it a mind blowing experience - I can’t ever recall seeing such exquisite attention to detail everywhere you look.

The Driehaus is closed Monday and Tuesday and usually open Wednesday through Sunday from 11-5. The second floor has been restored and is used for special exhibits. Check the website for all the details. I highly recommend paying the extra $5 for the docent led tour. It was excellent. And they have a small but really fantastic gift shop!

Next up the Charnley-Persky House Museum. Located at 1365 N Astor St, just a few blocks north of the Drake Hotel on Michigan Ave and a block west of Lake Shore Dr. This house was built in 1891 and is one of the few surviving buildings designed by two of the most famous architects in the US - Louis Sullivan and Frank Lloyd Wright💙

Wright was a young man working for Adler and Sullivan but I saw so many of his ideas - quite an endorsement from a revered architect like Sullivan to allow so much input from his employee. This new style embodies the desire of Sullivan and Wright to create an American style of architecture, and was the basis for Wright’s Prairie style.

This museum has more limited hours available for tours so please check the website before heading there. I definitely recommend booking your ticket in advance as you can only see the home on a tour and the groups are fairly small.

The home was built for the Charnley family but was saved and restored by Chicago philanthropist Seymour Persky in 1995. He provided the Society of Architectural Historians with the funds to purchase the house and it is now the international headquarters of that organization. Another important architectural piece of history saved.

That’s it for now! Thanks for letting me share my love of history, architecture and Chicago with you💕