Bergen Day 2

The sun is out in Bergen! I am watching the sky to see if pigs are flying because that’s about as common as a sunny day here. Lucky me! Also my head is spinning from a walking tour I just did with an excellent local guide. Normally I think Rick Steves does a really good job in his guide books, but here in Bergen even he says go on a walking tour with a local guide. So much history! You know that saying you don’t know what you don’t know? That’s how I feel about Vikings and the history of this area. I have given very little thought to Vikings. I picture men in armor wearing helmets with horns. The end. Well the horns are totally made up. They did wear helmets but no horns. And they weren’t very tall. But they were quite barbaric and don’t get much credit for all the places they started colonies. I have learned so much about them in such a short period of time I could almost write a book - or at least a lengthy pamphlet. I’m not going to try and write about everything I have learned except to say it was fascinating, and made me even more curious to learn more.

Always best to start with a great picture so here is one of my favorites. Looking across the harbor at the Bryggen UNESCO World Heritage Site. That’s the row of very old wooden houses you see next to the big ship. Between every other house there is a very narrow passage taking you to more historic buildings behind them. They have been through numerous fires and explosions - quite a history starting with a large German population hundreds of years ago. The ground water is deteriorating so the houses are sinking and there is a major project happening to save this important area. There have been excavations done there which currently show buildings existing all the way back to 1100.

Here are some pictures from the area behind the houses. Top left - the first restaurant which started as a central cooking building for the German merchants. Because of the real threat of fires they cooked in just one building. Top right - a very crooked staircase inside one of the buildings which you still can use to get up to the second floor. Makes you feel like you are drunk!

St. Mary’s Church - the oldest parish church and preserved building in Bergen dating back to 1130.

Bergenhus Fortress - a reminder of Bergen’s importance as the first permanent capital of Norway. Parts of it date back to the 13th century. Free to go in and walk around the grounds but a charge for the official tour.

If you’re in Bergen and like hot dogs or sausage this place I’ve been told on good authority is a must stop spot. When I walked by before it opened this is how it looked. I looked at the menu and at least 10 different kinds to choose from.

Walking by again shortly after it opened was an entirely different scene. The line of people wrapped around the building so get there early or expect to stand in line.

There are lots of cute coffee shops, bakeries and cafes and I went into one intending to get a coffee and cinnamon roll and ended up with a slice of veggie pizza. It was delicious!

Happy to report I tried the Brown Cheese finally. I discovered they make it into gelato and it was delicious. Tastes like Dulce de Leche! Both are dairy so it counts😜

Such a wonderful city to just stroll the streets and check out anything that catches your interest. This restaurant down a darling street is as cute as anything I’ve seen in Paris.

Just more random pictures of things as I strolled the streets. Bergen is built on 9 hills so everyone must be in great shape climbing the streets and stairs to get home.

Speaking of walking I’ve been doing a ton of it. Having the right shoes is essential and these Allbirds I bought are working out great. Good support and they are washable so if they get dirty I just wipe them off. Good to go the next day. I’m about halfway through my trip so still lots more ground to cover.

Last night in Norway so I had an amazing dinner at one of the restaurants on the second floor of one of the historic homes dating back to the last fire in 1702. To Kokker in Norwegian means two Cooks. Had a delicious piece of catfish with potatoes and fresh pea pods. I great way to wrap up my time in Norway.

That’s part one of my trip - part two starts tomorrow. The first part of this trip was through a Collette tour. This is my third trip with Collette and I’ve been happy with all of them. Nice hotels and they plan the transportation and some of the activities. It allows a good amount of time also to do your own thing - so I spent quite a bit of time researching the places we would visit and deciding what I wanted to see in my free time. Part two is totally on my own, so that’s been very fun for me as well. I’m heading to a country I love dearly - not my first trip there. Any guesses? Check back soon and see where in the world is Patti!

Bergen

Let life surprise you! I thought Bergen would be interesting but I was unprepared for what a jolt of happiness it gave me just walking around getting my bearings. It’s much more charming than I had imagined, and I love when something surprises me and gives me a second wind. It’s quite a bit smaller than the other big cities I’ve been to on this trip, so easier to wrap your arms around it. And I’ve barely scratched the surface and am looking forward to seeing so much more tomorrow. So here are some things I saw and did in the short time since I arrived.

They have the Fløbanen Funicular right in the center of the old town, so I took it to the top to get a view of the whole area. Very cool!

You can take the funicular down also but there is a great hiking trail that winds back to the center of old town and that felt like exactly what my legs needed - so off I went. Top left - entrance to buy your ticket. Top right - inside the car heading to the top. Bottom left - a sign at the top showing which way to NY, but I wish it included how many miles. Bottom right - the trail to walk down. I’m not sure where the children’s story Hansel and Gretel is supposed to take place - but that’s what I keep thinking of here in Norway. There is so much water and everything is so green and lush. I keep looking for the wicked witch to jump out and grab me and try to put me in the oven. The trolls they have everywhere remind me of that witch too. It was a pretty walk down - you keep getting glimpses of the town through the trees.

I can’t wait to walk around through the back streets more tomorrow. Bergen is very hilly so the narrow cobblestone streets are steep and many can’t even have car traffic. On my way walking down from the overlook I passed these cute streets, and one little door that I think is where the Troll lives!

Fish is a big business in Norway and especially in Bergen. The old fish market right in the harbor dates back to the 1500’s. Stands selling fresh fish and also usually with a little seating area where you can order fish and fish soup etc. Thinking maybe I stop there tomorrow for a bite for lunch. The live crabs top right were the size of a medium pizza!

The oldest area in Bergen is called the Hanseatic Quarter and the homes date back to the early 1700’s. I took this picture across the harbor but will get over there tomorrow to explore more as there are narrow streets behind the houses with shops etc.

On my way to find a place to eat dinner I passed by the National Theater. They were setting up tents in front of it but I’m not sure why. A gorgeous building built in 1909 in the Art Nouveau style. In addition to its hardy history there is also a good amount of culture here.

Last but not least my dinner. I was given a recommendation for a place called Pingvinen which means The Penguin and since it wasn’t far from where I’m staying I decided to check it out. Very local gastropub and lots of people enjoying one of what appeared to be a beer list numbering at least 100. My choice of food was either something with reindeer or something with fish. I decided to go with the Plukkfish. It said cod mixed with mashed potatoes with bacon on top and that was exactly what it was. And since it is exactly what the menu said I’m still trying to figure out why I was surprised that’s what it was😂 It was filling to say the least so I could only eat at best half. I’m giving myself credit for trying it. But a cute place.

I will wrap this up with a picture of me on my last ferry ride of the trip. I was on four or possibly five ferries total, and without this wonderful system of ferries you would at least double your travel time getting anywhere. There is so much water between the fjords and the lakes. Beautiful everywhere you look. I’m laughing because every single picture of me I’m in my navy raincoat. While many of my friends and family are sweltering back in the heat of the US, here it’s been in the 50’s or at best the 60’s. I’m doing this whole trip in a carryon and personal item so no room for additional coats. I’m sure you haven’t seen the last of it!

More from Bergen tomorrow!

The Fjords Day 3💕

If a picture is worth 1000 words than this is all I need to post today!

Worth traveling 4000 miles to see? My answer is YES! Spent a big chunk of today on a ferry on one of the most famous fjords in the world - the Geirangerfjord which is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage Site. And so happy that it wasn’t raining!

Check out the house in the middle of this rock cliff! It’s a little hard to see but I’m guessing their boat is anchored below the house and slightly to the left. If you see the boat go up about two thirds and look a bit to the right. That’s a house! No idea how they get up to it. I can imagine the AirBNB post now. Darling house overlooking one of the most famous fjords in Norway. Must be able to rock climb and rappell to rent this house 😂

We got off the ferry in a cute little village so I decided instead of browsing the souvenir shops I would walk up the hill to the sweet little village. Came to this church and was so touched seeing all the grave stones surrounded with beautiful flowers and plants in front of each marker. And a couple of older individuals planting beautiful flowers in front of some right as I was standing there. Then I remembered when in Oslo taking a city tour and going by a beautiful cemetery right behind the Royal Palace and the guide saying that flowers are one of the most loved things in Norway. When you are invited to dinner at someone’s home the traditional gift to bring is flowers. It’s very important that every grave have flowers or some type of greenery planted in front of it and if someone doesn’t have family close by to do it than the government does it for them. What a lovely tradition and it did make this cemetery a very special place.

On my walk back to the harbor I happened across a local stand that I thought had solved my problem of what to bring back for everyone. A stand that sells local reindeer and whale food items. Done! Even had samples to try. But then I found out that it is illegal to take any whale product outside of Norway. They will be confiscated at the airport so I’m back to square one. No one will be getting whale jerky in their Christmas stocking.

Say hello to the largest Norwegian Troll I’ve seen so far. In smaller sizes they are everywhere doing all kinds of things - holding flags, wearing Viking helmets etc. Quite a bit different than the troll dolls I remember from my childhood. A little scarier but still pretty cute. They are a Norwegian folk tale and supposedly come out when the sun goes down and steal naughty children. Reminds me of the Christmas Elf on the shelf!

We took a harrowing drive up 4800 feet to the top of Dalsnibba Peak. A narrow road with more hairpin turns than I could count. The higher we went the cloudier it became - or I think we were literally up about the clouds. It was pretty cold at the top and we could still see patches of snow that hadn’t melted yet. People like to leave their mark so we saw tons of cairns - the piled up rocks that people build as a memorial that they were there. Lots of waterfalls on the way up and down as well.

When I got back to the little village I’m staying in I decided to take a walk. It’s just so dramatically different from where I live that I am constantly amazed. Right next to the little hotel there is an apple orchard and the apples are looking perfect for harvest. The trees are so much smaller than I’m used to seeing and the apples are so close to the ground - but all absolutely perfect. And on the roadsides they have stands that are strictly on the honor system. They list the price and you put your money in the box. This stand was selling a bag of apples for 25 krone which is $2.50 US and a container of plums for 60 krone which is $6 US. I would have bought the apples but you can get by here with a credit card so I have zero Norwegian currency.

Then I chatted with all the sheep. They were as interested in me as I in them. They would stop eating grass, lift their heads and stare right at me and then start chatting. So cute and so many.

I walked by this darling church and read that the Celtic stone cross is over 1000 years old. Another church surrounded by a cemetery.

And finally a picture of the famous Norwegian brown cheese. I had never heard of it but it is everywhere. The square brown cheese is made from cows milk and the round from goats milk. I’m working up my courage to try it. I believe it is an acquired taste. From what I gather it is high in fat and sugar, but does have protein and other positive attributes. It is from many years ago when Norway was a very poor country (before they discovered they were sitting on all this oil) and so it was the leftovers from the good cheese cooked for a long time so as to make it edible. Doesn’t exactly make me want to run out and buy it but I’m perhaps open to trying a small sliver. I’ll keep you posted. Maybe right alongside some smoked whale😱

Tomorrow leaving this idyllic countryside and heading to Bergen. I’ve heard good things so anxious to see it for myself. It’s never lost on me how lucky I am to be here. Thanks for coming along🥰

The Fjords Day 2

This is my current view from the balcony of my room. Still quite rainy but almost magical with the low clouds. If by chance I wake up tomorrow and it’s a bit sunny it will be spectacular! I still pinch myself that I am here seeing it with my own eyes.

The morning adventure was a ride on the Flåm Railway called the Flåmsbana. It’s a train you can take from Oslo to Bergen but what most people do is take a portion of the train from Flåm to the top of the mountain and then back down to Flåm. The ride takes a little over two hours. Even though it was raining it was beautiful. They have had a lot of rain so it’s as if the mountains have sprung leaks! There are waterfalls everywhere you look. Tall and skinny or shorter and wider. The bottom left is a very long waterfall on the right and the road up to the top with something like 28 switchbacks on the left. Bottom right is a bush or tree with a red berry that was growing everywhere on the mountains.

One of the largest waterfalls is the Kjosfossen Waterfall with a free fall of 350 feet. The train makes a quick stop so you can get off for pictures. A Norwegian folk song starts to play and a woman with long hair and a red dress appears and starts dancing. It’s the Huldra - an elusive forest spirit from Norse mythology that is said to lure men into the woods to seduce them. You can see her in the bottom picture off to the right. Beware!

From the train and also throughout the beautiful rural countryside you see so many red barns and buildings. That’s a Norwegian tradition because back in the day red paint was cheaper than white so it was used lavishly. It’s quite cheerful. Also very traditional to have the Norwegian flag on your home. If it’s at half mast that means you’re not home and if it’s hoisted that means you’re home. I also read that Norway has an extremely low crime rate because announcing when you’re not home isn’t a great idea in most places. Everything is made of wood because there are so many trees here. I haven’t seen so many cows roaming around since I was in India. We were stopped more than once today because of cows wandering the roads. Also sheep too. Are they like dogs and eventually find their way home? Not sure but I’m going to try and find out.

Another thing often seen here are buildings with sod and plants on their roofs. I inquired and was told it’s a good way to insulate your building. So maybe in places where gardens are limited people could turn their roofs into gardens? An idea coming from a person that knows nothing about growing things. This was a restaurant we stopped at for a late lunch right by a beautiful glacier. Loved their use of skis as a divider. They say Norwegians are born with skis on their feet. Ouch! But they clearly are a very outdoorsy people. They live their lives outside and don’t let weather stop them. That’s me at the glacier. Yes I really am here!

A better picture of the glacier. Top left a little behind a cloud and then at the bottom by the water. The reason the water here in the fjords is such a beautiful green is because of the minerals coming from the glacier. Gorgeous even on a rainy day.

The food in Norway has been excellent. I have definitely seen some things on the menu not typical of the US diet, but the quality of fruits, vegetables and fish has been outstanding. Also really flavorful breads and cheeses. And delicious desserts! I have seen a few things that were a bit of a surprise. In this picture on the far left is smoked whale! I couldn’t bring myself to try it but I’m guessing it doesn’t taste like chicken.

Also not one but two kinds of caviar. Take as much as you want!

That’s it for today. One more day in the fjords tomorrow and then off to Bergen.

The Fjords!

My first view of a Fjord! Worth the wait and so glad the weather cleared a bit for a beautiful view💕

But first a little advertisement for the hotel I stayed at in Oslo. I don’t usually say much about where I’m staying for a number of different reasons - but the Oslo Bristol was a big splurge and I just have to give them a shout out. The hotel is over 100 years old but has been totally modernized while still keeping all the old world charm. It’s in a great location making everything super walkable and the included breakfast is nothing short of spectacular. If I could have fit the amazing coffee machine in my suitcase they would be missing one. So here are a few pics.

Most of today was spent traveling through the mountains to get to the fjords. It was raining a bit for most of the drive but we did see quite a few beautiful waterfalls along the way. They have had a lot of rain recently which does make for more robust waterfalls. We did stop in Borgund to see what is considered to be the best-preserved stave church in Norway. Stave churches date back to around 1100 and originally were over 1000 in Norway. Now there are only 28 remaining, and the one in Borgund is one of the very few that is still in its original location. This church was built in 1180 and entirely made of wood covered in a tar substance to protect the wood.

Top left - the original baptismal font. Top right - ceiling of the church. Bottom left - bell tower outside the church and the oldest in all of Norway. Bottom right - one of the original dragon carvings from the outside of the church, a reproduction on the church exterior currently.

Off now to bed. Tomorrow more fjords!