Paris Day 3

A gorgeous day in Paris so I headed to one of my favorite places - the Luxembourg Garden. To Parisians what Central Park is to New Yorkers on a smaller scale.

I take a picture from the same spot every time I’m in Paris and it always makes me happy. I definitely had plenty of company as the park was packed, but it’s big and everyone was enjoying the day. The bottom right picture has the Panthéon in the background. Lots of benches and green chairs to sit on and enjoy the park.

One of my favorite restaurants all the way back to 2016 has relocated to just outside the garden so that was lucky and I went there for a nice lunch. It’s called Trieze au Jardin and I sat outside with the park right across the street. I had the artichoke pie as they call it but more like a quiche crust. Delicious!

France has a number of beautiful churches and I like to stop and visit when I’m walking by and have the time. Sometimes I go out of my way to see them and St Sulpice is one of those churches. I love the architecture and lots of times they have beautiful artwork inside. With the fire at Norte Dame and reconstruction project going on St Sulpice which is not too far from Norte Dame has taken on additional significance. It was patterned after St Paul’s Cathedral in London and is really a beautiful building. It has three huge paintings by Delacroix right as you walk in on the right. I like to give thanks to a higher power for all my blessings and say some prayers for friends and family.

Now for a totally different experience I headed to see Samaritaine. I had read about it recently in the states so here is a brief history. La Samaritaine was a historic Parisian department store that closed in 2005. It had been in business since 1869 and had a beautiful Art Nouveau facade. It’s located right at the Seine River and the Pont Neuf Bridge. It was purchased by LVMH - the luxury goods corporation most well known for Louis Vuitton. So fast forward to 2021 when after an extensive revamp it has been reopened. I really wanted to see it from an architectural aspect and it was absolutely stunning.

I’ve seen a number of restaurants around Paris that have these beautiful flower displays on top. I love them! Let’s do this in Chicago too! Here is a sampling of what I’ve seen.

And in the vein of let life surprise you - the joy of aimless wandering - I happened across this group of at least 100 random people doing ballet across one of the bridges of the Seine River. Lots of people stopped to watch and everyone was smiling - dancers and watchers. A shared experience by all.

That was my day! Hope yours was wonderful as well. 💕

Paris Days 1&2

Yes I’m back in Paris! It never gets old to me. This time will be different though because I’m not doing things that I’ve done once, twice or even three times before - like the popular museums. So if you want to read about places like the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, and Orsay etc., check my previous Paris posts. All great to see but I have some different things planned and more time to just walk the streets and browse and relax. To me the city is spectacularly beautiful - even in the rain.

Day 1 was mostly a travel day. I was flying from Bergen so not really that big of a deal - except that Bergen is not a huge airline hub so my best option was a flight that forced me to get up at 3:30 AM to get to the airport on time. That was tough. Then a flight to Oslo to change planes for Paris. Once I landed I took the metro from the airport to my hotel. Charles de Gaulle is a big and somewhat confusing airport. And then not super well marked to find the metro and make sure you’re getting on the right train. But I do love puzzles so that’s half the fun for me. Plus you save a bunch of money and also time. The trains are more efficient in most cases than a taxi or Uber because of traffic. So after accomplishing all that and getting to my hotel I was almost ready to call it a day. But nope too early. So instead I went out for food and then walked around making sure some of my most favorite things were still here.

I like to make my first meal in Paris the famous Croque-Monsieur sandwich. Basically a fancy grilled ham and cheese sandwich but no one makes it like here in France. And available just about everywhere.

Found some of my favorite things. Still here and even beautiful with a few sprinkles.

Paris has one of the best public transportation systems in the world. And now coupled with a smart phone it’s the best bargain and gets you from one end of the city to the other in no time. And so reasonable. I always research which metro pass to purchase and make it a priority to get it right at the airport so I’m ready to go. They don’t all have these cool retro metro signs but it makes me happy when I see one.

On to day 2 which was way more exciting than day one. Started with my breakfast of choice. Just assume this is what I will be eating every morning. Different places but always the same items.

My first stop was the Opéra Garnier. It was built for Napoleon III in 1875 and still to this day hosts the opera and ballet. I had never been inside so it was on my list for this trip. Mind blowing! If you don’t have time to go to Versailles then go here instead. There are parts that were modeled after Versailles and just over the top decoration. I was there about two hours and did the self guided audio tour for a few extra dollars. Well worth it for the detail I would have missed on my own. It’s a HUGE building so had to use my panoramic camera function to get it all in.

I took at least 50 pictures of the inside. The bottom right is the ceiling in the auditorium and was redone in 1964 by Marc Chagall. I’m so glad I went. I really loved it and even though it’s not covered on the Museum Pass (which I highly recommend if you’re seeing quite a few museums) it’s worth the entrance fee.

Then when you leave the Opéra Garnier walk right across the street into Galleries Lafayette and go up to the roof and see it from there! And get a picture with the I love Paris sign🤗

And a fabulous view of some of the city and the rooftops!

Take some time and browse the store also. Has a magnificent stained glass dome over the cosmetics area that has a constantly changing centerpiece and at Christmas an enormous tree.

In the afternoon I did a wonderful food tour. I did some research as you need to sign up for these in advance and decided to go with Paris By Mouth. They had great reviews and do small groups no larger than 8. Also different areas of the city. They last between 3 and 3 and a half hours and since I’m not really a foodie and there is such fantastic food in Paris I decided to try it. First of all I met really fun people. All from the US from NYC to LA, and a great guide Stephanie that is originally from Philly and living in Paris for the last 6 years. She has been in the wine business and super knowledgeable about French food and culture.

We met Stephanie in the 6th arrondissement which is kind of the Beverly Hills of Paris. She took us to 5 of the best shops in the area for different foods that we would learn about and enjoy in the last part of the tour. Bread, cheese, charcuterie, chocolate and dessert. And we ate it all in a wine shop. The French take food very seriously and have awards that are given out for the best of the best. Like the Oscars of food. And there are things that there are actual laws about such as what ingredients bread can contain and how much it can cost. The best bread in the world and it can’t cost more than about $1.50. And they regulate the cost of chocolate croissants - because everyone should be able to afford one. Got to love a country that thinks chocolate croissants are a need😊

So after we went to all the shops we went to the wine store and Stephanie taught us so much about each of these categories. We tried them all with different wines and I will never buy my cheese at the grocery store again! This was such a fun thing to do and I highly recommend it. And I’m sure none of us were hungry for dinner!

More fun planned for the coming days. Everywhere you look in Paris you see something beautiful.

Bergen Day 2

The sun is out in Bergen! I am watching the sky to see if pigs are flying because that’s about as common as a sunny day here. Lucky me! Also my head is spinning from a walking tour I just did with an excellent local guide. Normally I think Rick Steves does a really good job in his guide books, but here in Bergen even he says go on a walking tour with a local guide. So much history! You know that saying you don’t know what you don’t know? That’s how I feel about Vikings and the history of this area. I have given very little thought to Vikings. I picture men in armor wearing helmets with horns. The end. Well the horns are totally made up. They did wear helmets but no horns. And they weren’t very tall. But they were quite barbaric and don’t get much credit for all the places they started colonies. I have learned so much about them in such a short period of time I could almost write a book - or at least a lengthy pamphlet. I’m not going to try and write about everything I have learned except to say it was fascinating, and made me even more curious to learn more.

Always best to start with a great picture so here is one of my favorites. Looking across the harbor at the Bryggen UNESCO World Heritage Site. That’s the row of very old wooden houses you see next to the big ship. Between every other house there is a very narrow passage taking you to more historic buildings behind them. They have been through numerous fires and explosions - quite a history starting with a large German population hundreds of years ago. The ground water is deteriorating so the houses are sinking and there is a major project happening to save this important area. There have been excavations done there which currently show buildings existing all the way back to 1100.

Here are some pictures from the area behind the houses. Top left - the first restaurant which started as a central cooking building for the German merchants. Because of the real threat of fires they cooked in just one building. Top right - a very crooked staircase inside one of the buildings which you still can use to get up to the second floor. Makes you feel like you are drunk!

St. Mary’s Church - the oldest parish church and preserved building in Bergen dating back to 1130.

Bergenhus Fortress - a reminder of Bergen’s importance as the first permanent capital of Norway. Parts of it date back to the 13th century. Free to go in and walk around the grounds but a charge for the official tour.

If you’re in Bergen and like hot dogs or sausage this place I’ve been told on good authority is a must stop spot. When I walked by before it opened this is how it looked. I looked at the menu and at least 10 different kinds to choose from.

Walking by again shortly after it opened was an entirely different scene. The line of people wrapped around the building so get there early or expect to stand in line.

There are lots of cute coffee shops, bakeries and cafes and I went into one intending to get a coffee and cinnamon roll and ended up with a slice of veggie pizza. It was delicious!

Happy to report I tried the Brown Cheese finally. I discovered they make it into gelato and it was delicious. Tastes like Dulce de Leche! Both are dairy so it counts😜

Such a wonderful city to just stroll the streets and check out anything that catches your interest. This restaurant down a darling street is as cute as anything I’ve seen in Paris.

Just more random pictures of things as I strolled the streets. Bergen is built on 9 hills so everyone must be in great shape climbing the streets and stairs to get home.

Speaking of walking I’ve been doing a ton of it. Having the right shoes is essential and these Allbirds I bought are working out great. Good support and they are washable so if they get dirty I just wipe them off. Good to go the next day. I’m about halfway through my trip so still lots more ground to cover.

Last night in Norway so I had an amazing dinner at one of the restaurants on the second floor of one of the historic homes dating back to the last fire in 1702. To Kokker in Norwegian means two Cooks. Had a delicious piece of catfish with potatoes and fresh pea pods. I great way to wrap up my time in Norway.

That’s part one of my trip - part two starts tomorrow. The first part of this trip was through a Collette tour. This is my third trip with Collette and I’ve been happy with all of them. Nice hotels and they plan the transportation and some of the activities. It allows a good amount of time also to do your own thing - so I spent quite a bit of time researching the places we would visit and deciding what I wanted to see in my free time. Part two is totally on my own, so that’s been very fun for me as well. I’m heading to a country I love dearly - not my first trip there. Any guesses? Check back soon and see where in the world is Patti!

Bergen

Let life surprise you! I thought Bergen would be interesting but I was unprepared for what a jolt of happiness it gave me just walking around getting my bearings. It’s much more charming than I had imagined, and I love when something surprises me and gives me a second wind. It’s quite a bit smaller than the other big cities I’ve been to on this trip, so easier to wrap your arms around it. And I’ve barely scratched the surface and am looking forward to seeing so much more tomorrow. So here are some things I saw and did in the short time since I arrived.

They have the Fløbanen Funicular right in the center of the old town, so I took it to the top to get a view of the whole area. Very cool!

You can take the funicular down also but there is a great hiking trail that winds back to the center of old town and that felt like exactly what my legs needed - so off I went. Top left - entrance to buy your ticket. Top right - inside the car heading to the top. Bottom left - a sign at the top showing which way to NY, but I wish it included how many miles. Bottom right - the trail to walk down. I’m not sure where the children’s story Hansel and Gretel is supposed to take place - but that’s what I keep thinking of here in Norway. There is so much water and everything is so green and lush. I keep looking for the wicked witch to jump out and grab me and try to put me in the oven. The trolls they have everywhere remind me of that witch too. It was a pretty walk down - you keep getting glimpses of the town through the trees.

I can’t wait to walk around through the back streets more tomorrow. Bergen is very hilly so the narrow cobblestone streets are steep and many can’t even have car traffic. On my way walking down from the overlook I passed these cute streets, and one little door that I think is where the Troll lives!

Fish is a big business in Norway and especially in Bergen. The old fish market right in the harbor dates back to the 1500’s. Stands selling fresh fish and also usually with a little seating area where you can order fish and fish soup etc. Thinking maybe I stop there tomorrow for a bite for lunch. The live crabs top right were the size of a medium pizza!

The oldest area in Bergen is called the Hanseatic Quarter and the homes date back to the early 1700’s. I took this picture across the harbor but will get over there tomorrow to explore more as there are narrow streets behind the houses with shops etc.

On my way to find a place to eat dinner I passed by the National Theater. They were setting up tents in front of it but I’m not sure why. A gorgeous building built in 1909 in the Art Nouveau style. In addition to its hardy history there is also a good amount of culture here.

Last but not least my dinner. I was given a recommendation for a place called Pingvinen which means The Penguin and since it wasn’t far from where I’m staying I decided to check it out. Very local gastropub and lots of people enjoying one of what appeared to be a beer list numbering at least 100. My choice of food was either something with reindeer or something with fish. I decided to go with the Plukkfish. It said cod mixed with mashed potatoes with bacon on top and that was exactly what it was. And since it is exactly what the menu said I’m still trying to figure out why I was surprised that’s what it was😂 It was filling to say the least so I could only eat at best half. I’m giving myself credit for trying it. But a cute place.

I will wrap this up with a picture of me on my last ferry ride of the trip. I was on four or possibly five ferries total, and without this wonderful system of ferries you would at least double your travel time getting anywhere. There is so much water between the fjords and the lakes. Beautiful everywhere you look. I’m laughing because every single picture of me I’m in my navy raincoat. While many of my friends and family are sweltering back in the heat of the US, here it’s been in the 50’s or at best the 60’s. I’m doing this whole trip in a carryon and personal item so no room for additional coats. I’m sure you haven’t seen the last of it!

More from Bergen tomorrow!

The Fjords Day 3💕

If a picture is worth 1000 words than this is all I need to post today!

Worth traveling 4000 miles to see? My answer is YES! Spent a big chunk of today on a ferry on one of the most famous fjords in the world - the Geirangerfjord which is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage Site. And so happy that it wasn’t raining!

Check out the house in the middle of this rock cliff! It’s a little hard to see but I’m guessing their boat is anchored below the house and slightly to the left. If you see the boat go up about two thirds and look a bit to the right. That’s a house! No idea how they get up to it. I can imagine the AirBNB post now. Darling house overlooking one of the most famous fjords in Norway. Must be able to rock climb and rappell to rent this house 😂

We got off the ferry in a cute little village so I decided instead of browsing the souvenir shops I would walk up the hill to the sweet little village. Came to this church and was so touched seeing all the grave stones surrounded with beautiful flowers and plants in front of each marker. And a couple of older individuals planting beautiful flowers in front of some right as I was standing there. Then I remembered when in Oslo taking a city tour and going by a beautiful cemetery right behind the Royal Palace and the guide saying that flowers are one of the most loved things in Norway. When you are invited to dinner at someone’s home the traditional gift to bring is flowers. It’s very important that every grave have flowers or some type of greenery planted in front of it and if someone doesn’t have family close by to do it than the government does it for them. What a lovely tradition and it did make this cemetery a very special place.

On my walk back to the harbor I happened across a local stand that I thought had solved my problem of what to bring back for everyone. A stand that sells local reindeer and whale food items. Done! Even had samples to try. But then I found out that it is illegal to take any whale product outside of Norway. They will be confiscated at the airport so I’m back to square one. No one will be getting whale jerky in their Christmas stocking.

Say hello to the largest Norwegian Troll I’ve seen so far. In smaller sizes they are everywhere doing all kinds of things - holding flags, wearing Viking helmets etc. Quite a bit different than the troll dolls I remember from my childhood. A little scarier but still pretty cute. They are a Norwegian folk tale and supposedly come out when the sun goes down and steal naughty children. Reminds me of the Christmas Elf on the shelf!

We took a harrowing drive up 4800 feet to the top of Dalsnibba Peak. A narrow road with more hairpin turns than I could count. The higher we went the cloudier it became - or I think we were literally up about the clouds. It was pretty cold at the top and we could still see patches of snow that hadn’t melted yet. People like to leave their mark so we saw tons of cairns - the piled up rocks that people build as a memorial that they were there. Lots of waterfalls on the way up and down as well.

When I got back to the little village I’m staying in I decided to take a walk. It’s just so dramatically different from where I live that I am constantly amazed. Right next to the little hotel there is an apple orchard and the apples are looking perfect for harvest. The trees are so much smaller than I’m used to seeing and the apples are so close to the ground - but all absolutely perfect. And on the roadsides they have stands that are strictly on the honor system. They list the price and you put your money in the box. This stand was selling a bag of apples for 25 krone which is $2.50 US and a container of plums for 60 krone which is $6 US. I would have bought the apples but you can get by here with a credit card so I have zero Norwegian currency.

Then I chatted with all the sheep. They were as interested in me as I in them. They would stop eating grass, lift their heads and stare right at me and then start chatting. So cute and so many.

I walked by this darling church and read that the Celtic stone cross is over 1000 years old. Another church surrounded by a cemetery.

And finally a picture of the famous Norwegian brown cheese. I had never heard of it but it is everywhere. The square brown cheese is made from cows milk and the round from goats milk. I’m working up my courage to try it. I believe it is an acquired taste. From what I gather it is high in fat and sugar, but does have protein and other positive attributes. It is from many years ago when Norway was a very poor country (before they discovered they were sitting on all this oil) and so it was the leftovers from the good cheese cooked for a long time so as to make it edible. Doesn’t exactly make me want to run out and buy it but I’m perhaps open to trying a small sliver. I’ll keep you posted. Maybe right alongside some smoked whale😱

Tomorrow leaving this idyllic countryside and heading to Bergen. I’ve heard good things so anxious to see it for myself. It’s never lost on me how lucky I am to be here. Thanks for coming along🥰