Venice - Day 13
We had a full action packed day in Venice, and since it was the only full day we had before moving on we tried to make the most of it. Venice has been described in some of the travel books I used for research as “elegant decay” and that describes it perfectly. Beautiful hotels, palazzos, squares, restaurants and shops - but the scientists say the water is winning, and there are some buildings that can no longer use their main floors because the water has taken over or it floods too often to allow them to live there. But that aside it’s interesting and quite the adventure to get around - by boat or foot! The streets or canals do not go in a straight line - ever! So finding most things takes patience and perseverance. Did we get lost?? 20 times! But half the fun is what’s around the corner or over the bridge.
So here is a recap of what we did:
After our usual breakfast of coffee and croissant (I am really going to miss that!) we headed over to St Mark’s Square - the focal point of Venice. We didn’t know this till the morning but it was a holiday in Italy - Liberation Day - so kind of like the Fourth of July. Also the feast day of St Mark - patron saint of Venice so lots of people off and in Venice to celebrate. There was a parade and a big ceremony at St Mark’s Square - making it even more crowded than normal for April.
It’s an amazing spectacle of gold, lions, mosaics and different architectural styles but it all works. The lion is the symbol for St Mark so lots of lions in evidence.
We did the Rick Steve’s audio tour of the square so next up was the Doge’s Palace which is right next to St Mark’s. The Doge is like a Duke or ruler of the empire.
Doge’s Palace, me with the Bridge of Sighs, and the Campanile (bell tower) which also sits in the square. The Bridge of Sighs connected the prison on the right with the palace on the left and as the prisoners were sentenced they walked over the bridge to prison and could take one last look at freedom.
Another famous site is the Rialto Bridge - the largest bridge in Venice. It spans the Grand Canal and is loaded with shops as far as the eye can see - and crowds of people!!
One of the prettiest views of Venice is from the Rialto Bridge!
When you think of Venice what’s the first thing that pops into your head? Gondolas right!! We saw plenty but it’s really expensive to do. 80 Euros plus tip during the day and 100 at night. I did it with Keeley when I was there before and once is maybe more than enough so we passed. But I did learn that there used to be 5000 gondolas in Venice and now there are only 500. And only one female gondolier! Six month training program and a really tough test.
These entrances are scattered through out Venice and it’s where you start your ride. They last an hour.
In action on the Grand Canal. It appears they are low on the totem pole in the hierarchy of boats. They always have to get out of the way of the other boats. Lots of people doing it.
We had lunch at one of the hundreds of cafes in a square and I had my usual mozzarella tomato sandwich on good bread and a glass of wine. The tomatoes in Italy are the best!! Then we headed to the Peggy Guggenheim Modern Art Museum. This was the highlight of the day for me. Her collection was fantastic! Picasso, de Kooning, Miro, to name just a few of the artists I recognized. And the museum is in the home she lived the last 30 or so years of her life in right on the Grand Canal - and that alone is worth seeing! I was so glad we made time for that!!
On the terrace of the Guggenheim Museum - that’s the view she had on the Grand Canal!
After the museum we attempted to find the Frari Church which had some Renaissance art in it, but we walked for at least an hour and no luck. We asked directions multiple times and still couldn’t find it so we gave up and headed back to St Mark’s Square for a glass of wine at the famous Florian Bar with live music. It has been there since Ernest Hemingway went there for a drink and we figured why not!!!
St Mark’s at sunset and a fancy drink listening to wonderful music. We felt pretty lucky!
We had a wonderful dinner both nights at a restaurant close to our apartment called Ristorante Diana. Sorry I have no pictures to post. The first night we shared grilled shrimp and spaghetti bolognese and the bolognese was so excellent that I asked Julie if she minded going back again so I could get it twice. She didn’t mind so this time we shared the bolognese and sea bass. Excellent again! And we loved the guys that worked there. So nice and they took good care of us.
Just a few of my favorite pictures.....
It was a really fun and interesting but tiring day. We walked over 11 miles and Venice isn’t even very big!!! There is nothing like it anywhere so I’m glad I got to be there one more time.
Ciao to Italy. Next up Slovenia!!! Thanks for coming along. Now off to brush up on a few Slovenian phrases - like where can I get the best potica in town???