Bruges!
If Disney’s Epcot added Belgium to their World Showcase I’m pretty sure it would be modeled after Bruges. That’s because Bruges is an extremely well preserved Gothic city that is entirely delightful from the minute you arrive. And the tourist area is less than one square mile and contained within a canal that is actually a former moat, making it literally impossible to get lost.
We took a one hour train ride from Brussels and from the minute we left the train were treated to amazing architecture, canals and beautiful parks.
From the train station we headed toward Market Square which was an easy 15 minute walk. Our first destination was the Bell Tower which overlooks the market. We waited in line about 30 or 40 minutes to get to buy a ticket to walk up the 366 steps past the bells to the tower, as they only allow a small number of people in at a time. As soon as we got our tickets and started the climb it became very clear why. The stairway is circular (because all stairways in Europe are circular) and so narrow it was definitely a one way route. If someone was coming down you had to flatten yourself against the wall and let them squeeze by you. So it was a bit of a slow go both ways, but a nice view of town from the top.
Top left is a view straight up of the Bell Tower. Bottom right is a picture of the carillon bell system which was actually under repair when we visited, so we didn’t get to hear the concert which typically plays frequently. Other two pictures are of the view from the tower.
We hadn’t really eaten breakfast since we discovered the coffee shops all open fairly late as compared to the US - some as late as 9AM, so headed to our restaurant of choice to see if we could have lunch. Lucky for us we scored a table without a reservation, but it was a really small place and once the tables were full everyone else was turned away. As I look back on all the great meals we had on the entire trip I would have to say this spot might have been my number one favorite! Took it right out of a recommendation from Rick Steves book on Belgium so thanks again Rick! A big thumbs up to Bistro den Amand!
Julie had fettuccine with asparagus and shrimp. I had a vegetarian plate with hot and cold veggies and a mushroom protein patty that was phenomenal and not anything I have ever seen in the US. The waiter described it as like tofu but made from mushrooms. The top right picture was of the little snacks that they brought us before the meal that were complimentary, and something we got in every restaurant we ate at in Belgium - a nice extra!
After lunch we did Rick Steves walking tour of Bruges. We hit all the main spots but decided to pass on a couple of museums since we just had one day and there were other things we wanted to see.
City Hall on Burg Square.
Pictures along the city walk. Canals, bridges, music, lots of people watching at sidewalk cafes. Every day must be a holiday in Bruges!
We made a visit inside the Basilica of the Holy Blood. The entrance was tucked into a corner of the square and didn’t look like much until we got inside. Built in 1150 to house what they say are real drops of Christ’s blood we were shocked to get inside and actually get to see the vial up close. There was a line of people and a priest up on an altar holding the vial and we each got to file past and get a close look. Now that’s not something that happens every day! No pictures were allowed but pretty sure I won’t forget it.
The church was very ornate and the pulpit really caught my eye. It was carved from a single massive oak tree and was attached right to the wall.
Next stop was the Church of Our Lady. It is a beautiful Catholic Church that is most famous for the statue of the Madonna and Child by Michelangelo. It is said to be the only statue by Michelangelo to leave Italy in the artist’s lifetime. He worked on it at the same time he was chiseling his masterpiece David.
A pretty walk over bridges to get to the church.
Time for coffee or in my case hot chocolate on the square!
We were energized after our caffeine drinks so decided to take another walk through a more residential area and hopefully get to the moat where supposedly there were a couple of real windmills.
Made it! I love all the beautiful buildings - some so narrow you can almost stretch your arms from one end to the other like the one in the middle top left.
We walked back to town and stopped to pick up chocolates at Dumon which supposedly has the smoothest, creamiest chocolates in all of Bruges. Handmade daily by the owner Nathalie Dumon.
Yep that’s Nathalie! She was a sweetheart and proud of her chocolates!
We had planned ahead and made a dinner reservation at another of Rick Steves suggested restaurants and were so glad we did. The restaurants are small and if they have a reservation at 8 PM for a table they won’t seat someone there before, because they don’t expect you to eat quickly and leave, and they would never try to rush you through your meal. So civilized and people really seem to slow down and enjoy each other’s company and the dining experience- noted! Bistro in den Wittenkop was excellent!
Both Julie and I had the sea bass and mashed potatoes. They brought us something before complimentary to snack on but don’t know exactly what it was. Some kind of a fish fritter in a delicious sauce. Such a nice touch!
Time to head back to the train station and our apartment in Brussels. What a great day! If you get a chance to go to Bruges DO IT!!! Next post - Antwerp😊