Copenhagen to Stockholm Days 4 & 5

I joined a tour in Copenhagen to go through Sweden and Norway and so far it’s going well. Nice people and a good way to see more of the countryside than flying from big city to big city. We left Copenhagen yesterday during the Monday morning rush and I have never seen so many people getting to work on bikes. 10 to 1 bikes versus cars - so cool. Denmark is a fairly flat country which is why it’s such a great place to bike, and maybe a good reason why the last two years the Tour de France winner is from Denmark. Even along the highways there are bike roads. It’s a pretty small country - about the size of Vermont, but has lots of islands so all totaled a huge coastline. Also it consistently ranks very high as one of the happiest countries in the world so they are doing a lot of things right.

The first place we stopped was at Mangholm Farm which is one of the top organic farms and has a lovely restaurant they supply all food for from their farm in addition to 7 of the top restaurants in Copenhagen. They have their own cattle and sheep that are from old Danish breeds and we got a tour of the farm that was so interesting. I have never been a gardener of any sort so my knowledge is minimal at best, but I learned a ton and it made me more willing to pay for organic food now seeing everything that goes into it. Plus we had a delicious mid morning snack that was the best coffee cake I think I’ve ever had. And I’ve had plenty!

Kronborg Castle in Helsinør is right across the channel from Sweden so we stopped there for a quick lunch before taking the ferry across to Sweden. Most famous because Shakespeare set Hamlet at this castle. We didn’t have time to go in but I read that it’s most impressive from the outside anyway. Then we hopped on the ferry named Hamlet and took the 13 minute ride into Sweden. Hello Sweden!

We spent the night at a wonderful manor home called Toftaholm. This place was magical. Set in the countryside on a beautiful little lake with an island that has the ruins of a castle dating back to the 1400’s. You can easily walk over to the island and climb up into the ruins and have an Outlander moment. At least that’s what it felt like to me. If you haven’t watched the series on Netflix you have no idea what I’m talking about but if you have then when I say I was afraid to touch the rocks you know what I mean! And there are the friendliest cutest sheep on the island that come right up to you when they aren’t eating the trees and beg you to pet them. Adorable!

And here’s the main house where all the meals are held. Two annexes on either side with cozy sweet comfortable rooms. I slept the best night of the trip so far as it was so quiet and peaceful.

Right before dinner they have a story teller come and it sounds kind of hokie but it was actually good. She is dressed as Queen Cristina and she tells the story of the ruins of Toftaholm including a ghost. Queen Cristina actually stayed there in the 1600’s so lots of history there. I did not see the ghost because as I said I had a great nights sleep.

The dinner was fantastic. I was expecting more of a country meal but it was 100% gourmet. Nettle soup with egg, trout with beetroot and horseradish foam, and for dessert poached rhubarb with strawberry sorbet, cake roll and white chocolate. Yumm!

Today was mostly driving through the countryside to get to Stockholm, but it was beautiful. I didn’t really know what to expect and one word comes to mind - pine trees. Is that two words? Anyway that’s what it is. The highways are so great, clean and well maintained. And lots of farms when it’s not pine trees with beautiful red barns and manicured land.

We made a rest stop and I got to enjoy my first taste of Fika. No that’s not a food. It’s what they call Sweden’s coffee break. It’s a morning or afternoon break for coffee and some type of pastry or cinnamon roll. I went with the cinnamon cardamom and it was delicious. I’ll do it again tomorrow and continue the tradition in the states.

Right across the road from our Fika stop was more ruins dating back to the mid 17th century. Brahehus was built as a country retreat for the Lord High Chancellor and you could just walk over and see it from the inside and out. Fabulous view of the lake and more beautiful farms. Another Outlander moment.

Made it to Stockholm and had time to walk around and get my bearings. I took Rick Steves Modern City Walk tour which started at the beautiful city garden called Kungsträdgården which originally was the King’s Garden. Now the central gathering place for the Stockholm people and they do concerts there and food festivals etc. It was a pretty day so lots of people out enjoying the weather.

Here is a picture of the city concert hall which hosts the annual Nobel Prize award ceremony. Built in 1926 in Swedish art deco design.

I walked by lots of cool stores - many showcasing Swedish design in not just clothing but furniture and home goods. I may need to check that out a bit closer tomorrow, in addition to seeing lots more of the history of such an important city. So check back again - I will have hopefully lots more to share. Maybe even a picture of some Swedish meatballs!