Paris Days 4&5

I started day 4 with a pre-booked walking tour of Montmartre. I used the company Paris Walks based on research I had done and topics of interest to me. I had been to Montmartre and the crowning jewel at the top of the big hill overlooking the city Sacré-Coeur a couple of times in the past, but didn’t know as much as I would like about the history of the area. Paris Walks does at least one walk a day and sometimes more and they are all over the city. So if you’re interested just Google them and then see what tours are available the days you’re going to be in Paris. 25 euros per person and I don’t think appropriate for young children. The tours are at least two hours of walking and lots of information. We had a very knowledgeable tour guide and at least 20 people on our tour so I think they do sell out. Pay in cash at the start of the tour. I did know that many of the artists I love (the Impressionists) lived in Montmartre along with various other types of artists. Probably where the term starving artists began because most of them lived like paupers with no heat and very little income. We got to see where Renoir, Van Gogh, and Toulouse-Lautrec lived to name a few. The Moulin Rouge is located in Montmartre and everyone knows the big red windmill on top. Actually moulin means mill and there were a number of windmills on the hill used to grind food. There are three remaining - the one on Moulin Rouge and two others. Bottom right picture is where the Impressionists used to all meet in the evenings. Top right was our guide and it’s worth it to take the tour just to hear the fabulous story of the sculpture coming through the wall in the bottom left.

We wound through all the little streets climbing the hill to reach the top finally and ending the tour at Sacré-Coeur. We didn’t go in and the line was enormous so I wasn’t even tempted. It’s free and if you’re there you really should see it. Also a wonderful view of Paris.

Next stop for me was to the Marais so I jumped on the metro. Got out and walked up the stairs and ended up in the most enormous farmer’s market I’ve ever seen in my life. There were stands from all over France with incredible things to sell. Wine, cheeses, meats, pastries, fruits and veggies and cooked food that all looked amazing. I was tempted by the crepes but so was everyone else. If you lived in the area how fantastic. The food is so fresh here. I purchased some apples at a little market by where I’m staying and they are delicious.

My destination was Place des Vosges - built by Henry IV in 1605 and meant to create the most exclusive neighborhood in Paris. The writer Victor Hugo lived in one of the apartments and his biggest hit was Les Misérables. You can actually tour his apartment - it’s a free museum so I said why not? The picture of the little statue inside the glass case is Cosette from Les Mis.

I had a nice lunch right there on the square with a great view of the central park. Lots of people out enjoying the beautiful day and open to everyone.

Since I was in the area I visited another of my favorite churches - Église St Paul - St Louis. When I was here over Christmas one year I attended a wonderful concert there and remembered how beautiful it is inside.

Since I’m in a church mood I took a stroll over to check on the progress they are making on Norte-Dame post the devastating fire in 2019. Lots of scaffolding but it’s coming along. On the walls around it there is a very interesting detail of the extent of the damage, the removal of the damage and then the reconstruction. I believe the most recent date for completion is sometime in 2025. I remember watching it burn on TV and thinking it could never be reconstructed. So happy to be wrong.

Day 5 started with me breaking one of my Paris rules. That rule is never go very far to get a great croissant and coffee from where you are staying. Mostly because I’m not Paul Hollywood and like most normal Americans I can’t tell a fantastic croissant from an extraordinary one so why go very far. Head in a different direction everyday and stop at the first boulangerie you get to and order. (Side note - I learned this on the walking tour. Called a boulangerie because bread in France was always round. Boule means round in French. Only more recently was bread baked in what we now call the baguette.) Well I had read about this place that just looked fantastic, but it was at least 30 minutes on the metro from where I’m staying. So I asked Stephanie from the food tour I did whether it was worth the trip and her answer was YES. So I headed there this morning and just as I expected there was a line out the door. Most boulangeries here are open 7 days a week - because remember in France good bread is considered a necessity. Well this place - Du Pain Et Des Idées is only open Monday through Friday - no weekends. You want our bread - come during the week! It was quite delicious! And so beautiful inside.

The bakery is in the 10th arrondissement I so decided to explore the area a bit. It’s where the Canal Saint-Martin is and now is quite a hip area with boutiques and cafes. The canal has cute bridges and I saw a darling park right along it with kids playing.

I ambled around and came across a few more arches. This one was my favorite.

I had heard about a beautiful park called Parc Monceau so made a visit and it was so delightful. Quite large - had a carousel, playground equipment, exercise areas, lots of people running, areas where kids were playing soccer, statues, water, a bridge and lots of benches with so many people enjoying the beautiful day. Today was the first day of school and the kids had just come from school so had backpacks and school bags and nicer clothes on than typical for kids at a park. Really made me feel like a local. Well except for the fact that I don’t speak French! Well a little and I am getting a bit better.

Tomorrow will hopefully go smoothly. I’m planning a day trip from Paris so fingers crossed I have planned well. Here’s another of my favorite pics - art and music at the Louvre💕