Stockholm Day 6

I feel like I have barely scratched the surface of Stockholm, and I’m already heading to Norway tomorrow. Just a good reason to come back I guess. I’ve been so fortunate with the weather and today was really nice also. I walked 7.5 miles so definitely covered some ground. Here are some fun facts. Stockholm is made up of 14 islands, and you can walk between many of them easily. There is a lot of rock and that is because of the ice age. It compressed the ground and formed rock. Consequently most homes and buildings don’t have basements. Too expensive to have to blast through all that rock to build, and much of the city is built on pilings similar to Amsterdam. The pilings are driven into the rock bed to secure the buildings. The city is surrounded by the Baltic Sea and a fresh water lake. Swedes love music and 10% of the population sings with some kind of choir. Some choirs have as many as 1000 members - which would be perfect for me so my voice could meld with 999 people that can actually hopefully carry a tune.

I spent time walking around the old town called Gamla Stan which was all of Stockholm prior to the 1600’s. It has very narrow roads so there is hardly any cars allowed because they just wouldn’t fit. The Royal Palace and Parliament are on Gamla Stan also. Top left - a rune stone dating back to the Viking-age held in place by a cannon barrel. Top right - one of the very narrow cobblestone streets. Bottom left -a town well dating back prior to 1520 and the site of the Stockholm Bloodbath where 80 of Stockholm’s top officials were killed during a Danish takeover. Bottom right - statue of King Gustav III considered to have turned Stockholm from a dowdy port into a sophisticated European capital.

Here’s a picture of Parliament.

This was the first bank in Stockholm dating back to 1680. It’s on a very cool square with restaurants that looked good.

Next I visited the Nobel Museum which opened in 2001 in the old stock exchange building. Alfred Nobel was born and lived in Stockholm and was a great inventor. He had over 300 patents the most successful being dynamite. He intended it for good purposes to help with construction and blast into the modern age, and was unhappy when it was used for destruction and war. He wanted his legacy to celebrate and support people with great ideas and that’s why he started the Nobel prizes. It was interesting and has lots of interactive exhibits, films and kiosks to find and read about every prize winner. One of my favorite exhibits was one where many of the winners donated something of great importance to themselves to the exhibit. Malala Yousafzai received the Nobel Peace Prize in 2014 and the top right photo shows the shawl she donated that was the shawl she wore when she made a great speech at the United Nations in 2013. I was fortunate to hear her speak in person in Kansas City and she was so impressive. And this all happened when she was just about 16 years old! So inspirational.

They do a big changing of the guard every day at the Royal Palace at 12:15. It takes about 45 minutes and was fun to see. The palace is the largest in Europe - even larger than Buckingham Palace in London. The Royal family has no power to govern but they seem to be much loved by the majority of Swedes.

I went to the Vasa Museum in the afternoon which is actually one of Europe’s great sight seeing attractions but sadly my pictures didn’t turn out at all. Definitely operator error. It’s fairly dark inside to protect the ship I think so maybe that had something to do with it. Anyway it’s a huge ship that was built in 1628 as a warship and was supposed to be the greatest one of the time, but it only sailed for 40 minutes before it blew over and sank to the muddy bottom of the Baltic Sea. It stayed there for over 300 years until they finally got it out of the mud in 1959. There is a movie that showed how they got the boat out and to me that was a bigger accomplishment than building the boat!

I headed to another part of the city called Östermalm that I had read was a wonderful residential area with cool restaurants and shops. This is a picture as I’m crossing the bridge to get from one island to the other. So many beautiful boats and cute little cafes that are all over the banks of the water.

I happened across a wonderful old-time market called Saluhall that dates back to 1888, but now has wonderful restaurants around the inside perimeter with the whole inside all specialty food stalls. It all looked so amazing - fresh and beautiful.

I was pretty hungry as it was late afternoon and I hadn’t eaten since breakfast. I had been considering trying the national dish of Sweden - meatballs, mashed potatoes, pickled cucumbers and lingonberries and when I saw a restaurant inside the market that looked really good decided to go for it. Happy to report it was delicious! I couldn’t quite finish the large portion they gave me but I came close.

There is still so much to do and see here in Stockholm - but I feel fortunate I got at least a sample of what a beautiful city it is. On to Norway! 🇳🇴

Copenhagen to Stockholm Days 4 & 5

I joined a tour in Copenhagen to go through Sweden and Norway and so far it’s going well. Nice people and a good way to see more of the countryside than flying from big city to big city. We left Copenhagen yesterday during the Monday morning rush and I have never seen so many people getting to work on bikes. 10 to 1 bikes versus cars - so cool. Denmark is a fairly flat country which is why it’s such a great place to bike, and maybe a good reason why the last two years the Tour de France winner is from Denmark. Even along the highways there are bike roads. It’s a pretty small country - about the size of Vermont, but has lots of islands so all totaled a huge coastline. Also it consistently ranks very high as one of the happiest countries in the world so they are doing a lot of things right.

The first place we stopped was at Mangholm Farm which is one of the top organic farms and has a lovely restaurant they supply all food for from their farm in addition to 7 of the top restaurants in Copenhagen. They have their own cattle and sheep that are from old Danish breeds and we got a tour of the farm that was so interesting. I have never been a gardener of any sort so my knowledge is minimal at best, but I learned a ton and it made me more willing to pay for organic food now seeing everything that goes into it. Plus we had a delicious mid morning snack that was the best coffee cake I think I’ve ever had. And I’ve had plenty!

Kronborg Castle in Helsinør is right across the channel from Sweden so we stopped there for a quick lunch before taking the ferry across to Sweden. Most famous because Shakespeare set Hamlet at this castle. We didn’t have time to go in but I read that it’s most impressive from the outside anyway. Then we hopped on the ferry named Hamlet and took the 13 minute ride into Sweden. Hello Sweden!

We spent the night at a wonderful manor home called Toftaholm. This place was magical. Set in the countryside on a beautiful little lake with an island that has the ruins of a castle dating back to the 1400’s. You can easily walk over to the island and climb up into the ruins and have an Outlander moment. At least that’s what it felt like to me. If you haven’t watched the series on Netflix you have no idea what I’m talking about but if you have then when I say I was afraid to touch the rocks you know what I mean! And there are the friendliest cutest sheep on the island that come right up to you when they aren’t eating the trees and beg you to pet them. Adorable!

And here’s the main house where all the meals are held. Two annexes on either side with cozy sweet comfortable rooms. I slept the best night of the trip so far as it was so quiet and peaceful.

Right before dinner they have a story teller come and it sounds kind of hokie but it was actually good. She is dressed as Queen Cristina and she tells the story of the ruins of Toftaholm including a ghost. Queen Cristina actually stayed there in the 1600’s so lots of history there. I did not see the ghost because as I said I had a great nights sleep.

The dinner was fantastic. I was expecting more of a country meal but it was 100% gourmet. Nettle soup with egg, trout with beetroot and horseradish foam, and for dessert poached rhubarb with strawberry sorbet, cake roll and white chocolate. Yumm!

Today was mostly driving through the countryside to get to Stockholm, but it was beautiful. I didn’t really know what to expect and one word comes to mind - pine trees. Is that two words? Anyway that’s what it is. The highways are so great, clean and well maintained. And lots of farms when it’s not pine trees with beautiful red barns and manicured land.

We made a rest stop and I got to enjoy my first taste of Fika. No that’s not a food. It’s what they call Sweden’s coffee break. It’s a morning or afternoon break for coffee and some type of pastry or cinnamon roll. I went with the cinnamon cardamom and it was delicious. I’ll do it again tomorrow and continue the tradition in the states.

Right across the road from our Fika stop was more ruins dating back to the mid 17th century. Brahehus was built as a country retreat for the Lord High Chancellor and you could just walk over and see it from the inside and out. Fabulous view of the lake and more beautiful farms. Another Outlander moment.

Made it to Stockholm and had time to walk around and get my bearings. I took Rick Steves Modern City Walk tour which started at the beautiful city garden called Kungsträdgården which originally was the King’s Garden. Now the central gathering place for the Stockholm people and they do concerts there and food festivals etc. It was a pretty day so lots of people out enjoying the weather.

Here is a picture of the city concert hall which hosts the annual Nobel Prize award ceremony. Built in 1926 in Swedish art deco design.

I walked by lots of cool stores - many showcasing Swedish design in not just clothing but furniture and home goods. I may need to check that out a bit closer tomorrow, in addition to seeing lots more of the history of such an important city. So check back again - I will have hopefully lots more to share. Maybe even a picture of some Swedish meatballs!

Copenhagen Day 3

It’s my last day in Copenhagen, and it started out a little cloudy but then cleared up and was beautiful. Good thing for all the people doing the Copenhagen Ironman today. The run went right past my hotel and it was fun to see some of the athletes, but it took all day so what a grueling challenge. The finish line was right in front of the Christiansborg Palace, and if you watched Bergen on Netflix that’s where most of it takes place.

I also got to see the Little Mermaid statue from the front. It’s actually fairly small. Kind of like seeing the Mona Lisa in the Louvre. She has been vandalized a couple of times - once losing her head and once her arm. Really? What kind of person hates on the Little Mermaid? But now she has lights and more security so she’s doing pretty well. A huge crowd of people so she’s very popular. A cool seaplane in the background.

Next stop Amalienborg Palace. This is where the current queen actually lives. The top picture is her residence, but there are 4 basically identical houses that look like that around a central courtyard. One for the reigning Queen or King, then one for the next in line, one a guest house, and one a museum. They have royal guards that stand just like at Buckingham Palace and have the changing of the guards - but if the queen is gone then it’s far less of a production. That was the case today since she is in France. Bottom right picture is of their church. It’s called the Marble Church and is right between two of the houses. Quite stunning. Also the statue of the man on the horse is Frederick V.

Then I headed over to an area called Christianshavn. It’s across the bridge from the central part of town and very residential and beautiful. I read that it used to be a merchant’s district and fell into bad condition until a couple of decades ago when it had a resurgence and is now considered very desirable with wonderful renovated apartments and condos, cool restaurants and great canal walks. I researched a good restaurant to have a staple here in Denmark - the open face sandwich for lunch. It did not disappoint. They recommend 3 per person but I couldn’t even finish two. They are served on amazing rye bread. Top right was potato, red onion and a crab cake. Bottom right was beetroot with fried goat cheese on top. They have at least 20 different combinations - some with sea food, beef and chicken in addition to vegetarian. Delicious!

I just wandered around and sat on a few benches and enjoyed all the boat traffic through the canals. So many beautiful boats including some that looked like people might actually live on them.

They have a church in Christianshavn called Our Savior’s Church that you can pay a few dollars and climb the 400 stairs to get to the top of the tower. I thought about doing it but it wasn’t the 400 stairs that made me say no - it was the fact that the top part is totally open and there is no way I wouldn’t have been gripping the wall and totally freaking out with my fear of open height. I could actually see people climbing those spirals and it made my head spin. But looks amazing even from the outside. So if you’re there ever check it out and it might be right up your alley. They say you have a great view of the whole city and I totally believe it.

Here is a good picture of the new Copenhagen library. It’s enormous and called the Black Diamond. It angles up so larger at the top than the bottom. It picks up the reflection off the water and shimmers on a sunny day. It’s connected to the old library right behind it so a perfect example of the old and new working together. A fantastic wonderful resource for all the people of Copenhagen.

Something I’ve never seen before - rent an umbrella. I’ve seen rent a bike and rent a scooter, but I guess since it rains quite a bit up here you can just rent a nice big umbrella. I haven’t seen this in the states yet but I think it’s a great idea for big cities where people walk a lot like NYC and Chicago. Thoughts?

I’ve mentioned how people really enjoy the water here and it’s been a bit of a surprise how much swimming I’ve seen. There are some areas cordoned off that appear to be where you’re supposed to swim, but people put down towels just about anywhere that is close in height to the water and just jump in. And you see structures like this one along the boardwalk too. Pretty creative. Who needs a waterfront summer house in Copenhagen when you can jump in anywhere.

Copenhagen has really exceeded my expectations. Such a beautiful city with so much history, but also really embracing the future with new designs and energy efficiency. The people are friendly and helpful and appear to really enjoy life. I highly recommend putting it on your list and I may add it back on mine for a return visit. Next stop Sweden! Check back and thanks for coming along! 🇩🇰

Copenhagen Day 2

Another beautiful day in Copenhagen. Also it’s Saturday so lots of people out and about, especially in the water. Boaters, kayakers, paddle boarders and tons of swimmers. The water looks clean and someone said you can drink it. Wait isn’t it sea water so doesn’t that mean it’s salty? I will research that another time.

I started my day with a tour of city hall which is called Rädhus located in the town square. It’s looks quite old but was actually built in 1905. We had a great tour guide that not only described the building and architecture, but quite a bit about the history and beliefs of the Danish people. They are very proud of their democracy and everything is built around the importance of keeping it. That’s the city’s founder above the entrance in gold - Bishop Absalon (1128-1201).

Lots of detail inside filled with symbolism and history.

They have a special room that houses Jens Olsen’s World Clock built from 1943 to 1955. The most precise clock in the world. One of its gears does a complete rotation every 25,753 years. That makes zero sense to me but still pretty cool.

Outside to the left of the building is a statue of Hans Christian Andersen. I read the tradition is that you sit in his lap, take off your shirt and take a picture. What? Just reporting what I read! I didn’t see anyone do that and I was not inclined. The Danes do seem to be quite fun loving so maybe another time.

Lots of bakeries in Denmark - just look for the pretzel hanging outside. This one had a pretty good line so I hope to get back there before I leave.

Next up Rick Steves walking tour. He never disappoints for people like me that want to know all the history including the statues, fountains and hidden courtyards that usually just the locals know about. Here are a few pics of things that stood out to me. Top left - fountain in the old town square. It’s a pregnant woman squirting water from her breasts next to a boy urinating. I’m not making this up! The people were appalled so they raised it high hoping no one could see it, and in all honesty it’s a little hard to see. Top left - the Round Tower. Built in 1642 it connects a church, library and observatory and offers a great view of the city. Bottom left - Christiansborg Palace which the royal family shares with parliament. Bottom right - Sankt Peters Church. Lots of weddings happening all over town today - from City Hall to all the churches.

I found a cute place for lunch on the walking tour. It was in a sweet courtyard off the busy main street so I enjoyed a delicious panini sandwich and did some people watching while sitting in the shade.

There are lots of cute street food stands and quite a number of them offer sausages. Always makes me think of my son. He would be trying them all. This one looked particularly good so I was tempted. Not there yet.

One of the most popular things to do here is take a canal tour. The main company is called Canal Tours - so creative. There are other companies that use much smaller boats and would be fun for a group of friends - but I just did the traditional one and really enjoyed it. You get to see lots of impressive buildings, museums, neighborhoods, the Royal yacht, where the queen lives, and also go under about 30 of the lowest bridges you’ve ever seen! I saw the famous Little Mermaid statue but just from the back. Tomorrow I might rent a bike and go see it from the front. The guide doing the tour has to actually crouch down and almost sit on the floor of the boat not to get knocked over. Plus on a nice day it’s fun to get out on the water. Tours are an hour.

Walking back to the hotel my GPS took me right through the Royal Garden which is between Parliament and the library. So beautiful! An unexpected surprise and great way to wrap up a fun day.

Thanks for coming along💕 Farvel That means goodbye.

Day 1 -Copenhagen

Better late than never! This was a trip I planned for 2020 and it’s finally coming to fruition. First stop Copenhagen and my initial impression is very positive. This is going to be fairly brief as most of the day was just spent getting here. I landed and then took the train to the center of town. Super easy to do and only cost $4.40 US - quite a bargain. Found my hotel and then took a long walk to get my bearings. Here are just some things that caught my attention. Lots of construction happening. I love the contrast of the very old and very new. Feels like such a vibrant city and because the weather was amazing so many people out walking and more bicycles than cars for sure. Lots of water with the sea and all the canals so beautiful boats taking people out and something I’m planning to do tomorrow for sure.

Nyhavn is probably the most photographed area of Copenhagen and what everyone thinks of first. Established in the 1670s it was originally sailors’ quarters. Now very gentrified and full of trendy cafes, jazz clubs and great people watching. Also where Hans Christian Andersen lived and no way at some point I’m not going to see the Little Mermaid statue.

I walked by so many beautiful stores! Good thing I’m not much of a shopper because it was tempting even for me. I wandered into this beautiful emporium called ILLUM and came across this spectacular art installation by Kenneth Rasmussen - an artist that upcycles trash to art. This one is knitted from plastic bags and was gorgeous.

What I didn’t do was eat! I was occupied with taking it all in and then was just too exhausted to sit at a restaurant for fear of falling asleep in my plate. So tomorrow I will definitely make up for it and post the local fare. Lots of bakeries which is right up my alley. As usual I have planned full days for myself so check back and come along. It feels so good to be out exploring again🤗